In 2003, I sat down to lunch at Beringer Vineyards one-on-one with Chief Winemaker Laurie Hook. She had taken over the reigns from Ed Sbragia in 2000, and the thrill of crafting the extensive Napa portfolio was still fresh in her words and actions. Laurie arrived at Beringer in 1986, becoming assistant winemaker in 1994. (Parenthetically, I just drank a bottle of the 1994 Private Reserve and can attest that it is still gorgeously firing on all cylinders.)
Today’s wine will be one of Laurie’s last. She has stepped down, becoming Winemaker Emeritus, and hands over the unenviable task to Mark Beringer, relative of the founding fathers, and terrific wine master for many years at Duckhorn Winery, (one of Coach K’s favorites …). I’ve had one-on-one lunch with Mark as well, so this story is just a great revolving carousel!
I say “unenviable” because the 2012 iteration of this classic wine is simply as good as any that I can ever remember. The years of tweaking the sources for this grand wine have certainly paid dividends, and the superiority of the optimal vintage conditions also comes shining through. But it’s Laurie’s expert hands that have pieced together this extremely collectible gem. What a pleasure it is to muse about it.
2012 Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Beringer Vineyards $165 srp*
Brilliant, saturated purple color. Regally powerful nose of crushed blackberry, cedar, espresso and mint with floral/spicy overtones mixed with lead pencil highlight. Exquisite, velvety mouth texture that is seamless and bursting with black fruit, fig, earth, sage, vanilla, pepper and a mineral-like cut to keep it floating. Its graceful length makes it already a joy to try, but a long development ahead is assured. I can’t imagine how this could be any better. Drink now-2029.
97/100 points
*Shop around for best price, but don’t tarry!
