A Structured-Yet-Wild Argentine Malbec

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Wine Wednesday Colome MalbecMalbec is pretty well known in America. Many people know it was once a favored grape in the wine blends of Bordeaux, but Malbec really needs more sun and heat than Bordeaux can consistently offer. Its success in the southwestern French region of Cahors (once – in a sexist fashion – called “the manliest wine of France”) has seemingly diminished in today’s production. But its transference to the clime of Argentina has brought the proof of its possibilities to the fore. Colomé, located in the high-altitude region of Salta, produces a Malbec both richly textured, yet feeling fresh and breezy, from vineyards ranging from 5,000 to 10,000 feet above sea level! Colomé’s Estate Malbec brings out the remarkable qualities of this thin-skinned beauty of a grape.

2013 Colomé Estate Malbec, Salta $25 srp

Dense, inky purple color. Deeply vinous nose that needs coaxing from the glass. Elements of garrigue, mountain herbs and lanolin are the backdrop on the blackberry compote bouquet. Smells gamey and wild, with a beautiful structured purity that is profound. A wonderful freshness accompanies its black cherry flavors, with a sumptuous texture and aftertaste. Simply blossoms in the glass. A natural for red meats, mushroom dishes or lamb stews, this really shows the great class that Malbec can achieve. Drink now-2022.
 
92/100 points

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Arturo Ciompi

Trained as a classical clarinetist and conductor, Arturo plied his trade for many years in New York, performing with the Orpheus Chamber Orchestra, New York City Opera, the American Symphony and countless chamber music groups. While living in Durham, Arturo became the wine manager at two iconic gourmet stores: Fowler’s in Durham and Southern Season in Chapel Hill. He had a wine spot on NPR in the ’90s and has been a continuously published wine journalist since 1997. He has won national awards for his work and is currently writing for Durham Magazine and its weekly blog, “Wine Wednesdays”. In addition, he loves teaching the clarinet. Read more on his website.
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