One woman’s mission to redefine community and sustainability led her to opening her own poke restaurant
By Leah Berry | Photography by John Michael Simpson
Janet Lee first came to Durham 11 years ago as a grad student at Duke University’s Fuqua School of Business after transferring from Columbia University.
Her path to that point wasn’t easy. She’d attended three different high schools and struggled with depression for much of her youth, but after the shock of earning a 0.7 GPA at San Diego State University, Janet says she finally focused on her mental health and “started working hard.” She went to community college in Santa Monica and eventually transferred to UCLA, graduating with honors. “I didn’t know what I wanted to do, but I knew I wanted to do something with the community and give back,” Janet says. After graduating from Fuqua, Janet gave the corporate world a shot as a project manager at a pharmaceutical company, but “it wasn’t fulfilling,” she says.
A Fresh Start
A yoga lesson at Threehouse Studios changed everything, Janet says. The instructor shared a simple message with the class – “You only have one life, so do what makes you happy.” It was exactly what Janet needed to hear. “I put in my two weeks notice the very next day, impulsively, without a plan,” Janet says. “Of course, that probably wasn’t the wisest choice, because it takes at least a year to open up a business.”
That business was ZenFish Poke Bar, a 700-square-foot restaurant Janet opened on Ninth Street in 2016. The concept was suggested by her brother; poke was one of Janet’s favorite foods growing up in California, and she has fond memories of Hawaiian poke, specifically, from travels to the islands with her family.
“I knew I wanted to create a space of inclusivity and kindness,” Janet says. She was bullied as a child for not speaking English, and she often ate lunch alone. “Selfishly speaking, I wanted to create a space where I felt like I belonged, because I never really felt like I belonged my whole life, in a way,” she says, adding that Durham was a perfect choice for her restaurant. “The people here are all so kind and so genuine,” Janet says. “We’re progressive, there’s a lot of diversity, people are always rooting for one another, … there’s a sense of Southern hospitality. It’s the best of all worlds in such a small area.”
Janet and her husband, Bryan Wylie, are now the parents of two young boys, who she often brings to work. “Even with kids, I want to put 110% into my business,” she says. “I want to incorporate my family in my business.” That includes her chosen family – her employees – too. “I’m the type of owner where everyone has my cell number,” she says. “They can text me in the middle of the night for advice, a ride, anything … we’re really a family.”
Double Duty
Janet is also a real estate agent; she originally started in California, but picked the work up again in Durham four years ago to create an additional stream of income for ZenFish. The restaurant also recently added another income stream by bottling its house-made sauces. “We donate a portion of every bottle to a different nonprofit that advocates for human rights and the environment,” Janet says. “Our vision is to be able to get these bottles into grocery stores … the more bottles we sell, the more we have to be able to give back.” You can find its sauces in Durham at Bulldega Urban Market, LocoPops and The Common Market.
Eco-Conscious Poke
The fast-casual restaurant, which operates a second location at Homestead Market in South Durham, prioritizes sustainability by using compostable materials to reduce landfill waste. Janet ensures no plastic is used, and the restaurant opts for sustainable protein sources, whether line-caught or responsibly farmed, as well as fair-trade produce like avocados, cucumbers and organic salads in addition to local ingredients such as watermelon radishes from Cottell Organics and MamaSprings Farm’s microgreens, among other in-season fare.
“We aren’t financially able to do everything local, but every item we serve is a mindful, conscious decision,” Janet says. “We’re always looking for ways to be more sustainable … to me, bringing quality items to my customers is most important. We don’t cut corners, and I’m very proud of the food that we serve.”
ZenFish clientele clearly appreciate it. “I’ve never met customers who are this kind,” she says. “We have awesome people coming through our doors …customers who have invited us to their weddings, given us Christmas presents, baked us cookies and brownies. There’s never been a day that I wasn’t excited to be at ZenFish or see my customers.”
“If you do something that is actually fulfilling for you, then the hard thing doesn’t feel that hard. I feel like this is meaningful work: It’s building a community, building a family, promoting kindness, promoting mental health awareness, human rights, etc. … it’s more than serving poke bowls.”
Janet Lee
