A Tale of Two Grapes

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Wine Wednesday 9.16.15The thrillingly rich white wines of the Northern Rhône, among them Hermitage Blanc, have caught the fancy of wine lovers (and makers) the world over. The blending of Marsanne and Roussanne grapes can produce a heady wine — a perfect match for grand dishes when a white wine is preferred by the diners. Bob Lindquist is one of California’s “original” Rhône Rangers — planting and caring for the great Rhône grapes in the Central Coast region, located between San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara. Today’s wine, from Qupé Winery (“A Modern Stone Age Winery!”) shows the potential of this fascinating grape blend. Qupé means “poppy” in the early settler language of the Qumash people.

2013 Marsanne Qupé, Santa Barbara County $22 srp

Bright white to yellow-gold hue. Unctuous, honeyed apple with spicy pear notes on the nose. A nice grassiness and saline “cut” tickles the sinuses. Drinks surprisingly lightly with very brisk acids on its citrus-laden flavors. The mouth texture rounds out nicely with a somewhat chalky finish. Compact, very clean and dry, it seems as though it could use a bit of settling down. Drink with seafood, veal scallopine or a tomato-based poultry dish. (75% Marsanne, 25% Roussanne.) Drink 2016-20.

89/100 points

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Arturo Ciompi

Trained as a classical clarinetist and conductor, Arturo plied his trade for many years in New York, performing with the Orpheus Chamber Orchestra, New York City Opera, the American Symphony and countless chamber music groups. While living in Durham, Arturo became the wine manager at two iconic gourmet stores: Fowler’s in Durham and Southern Season in Chapel Hill. He had a wine spot on NPR in the ’90s and has been a continuously published wine journalist since 1997. He has won national awards for his work and is currently writing for Durham Magazine and its weekly blog, “Wine Wednesdays”. In addition, he loves teaching the clarinet. Read more on his website.
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