I have a very soft spot for the red wines of Dão, this north-central wine region of Portugal. I used to sell inexpensive Dãos in the ’80s and ’90s to an adoring public — once they had tried them! They can still represent remarkable wines of subtlety and profound bouquet. Lovers of Pinot Noir should seriously look into these wines of great purity, tension and balance. Today’s example is lithe and beautifully rendered.
2013 Pedra Cancela Reserva, Dão DOC $22 srp
Purple core color fanning out to red. The bouquet is strikingly pure with a driving sensation that is profusely perfumed! Excellent ripeness on the nose with red berries, floral sensations and tobacco notes. The flavors are medium-bodied, long and persistent with subtle raspberry, cocoa and fresh earth elements. The finish is still firm but very polished and refined. Opens up wonderfully over the course of four hours. (70% Touriga-Nacional plus Tinta-Roriz and Alfrochiero) Portugal’s answer to red Burgundy? Drink now-2020.
91/100 points
