The Joy of Cellaring

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HopeValleyBottleShop_BannerSPECimagesSometimes the pleasure of buying a wine, cellaring it and waiting for that most special occasion to open it is a true joy. I don’t usually have the money to buy first growth Bordeaux — the release prices for these wines climbs ever higher. But I sensed that the 2002 vintage was being overlooked, and my tasting of “lesser” wines from that year was encouraging. One day, a store I purchase from was closing out the 2002 Chateau Haut-Brion. They had one bottle left, and I pounced. Bought in 2005, it has been resting in my cellar awaiting a right moment. That came over this past weekend. My wife needed some uplift, and that was the signal to go to Four Square Restaurant. The food and service was at its usual stellar level, and the wine, uncorked four hours before, was our oyster!

2002 Chateau Haut-Brion, Graves, Premier Grand Cru Classé $319-$339 srp*

Remarkably dark, black cherry core with a reddish to orange rim. Deep bouquet of saturated blackberry with dark chocolate, leather, tobacco and burnt forest overtones. A touch of vegetal green blew off over two hours. Flavors are dense with a sappy, full-bodied palate of fruit compote; has almost a molasses-like texture without the sweetness. Acidity was a touch high but far from ruining the experience. Warm, tender and mouth-filling, it enthralls your senses. A single glass, drunk on evening two, was even better! Drink now-2019.

93/100 points, but at the highest level of criticism!


To purchase this bottle of wine or to find something similar from a wide selection of wines, email or call Hope Valley Bottle Shop at 919-403-5200. Don’t miss their free wine tastings every Saturday evening from 4:30 to 7:00 p.m. Find your favorite bottle or expand your palate with something new from Hope Valley Bottle Shop — South Durham’s original bottle shop. Visit them at the Woodcroft Shopping Center or at hvbottleshop.

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Arturo Ciompi

Trained as a classical clarinetist and conductor, Arturo plied his trade for many years in New York, performing with the Orpheus Chamber Orchestra, New York City Opera, the American Symphony and countless chamber music groups. While living in Durham, Arturo became the wine manager at two iconic gourmet stores: Fowler’s in Durham and Southern Season in Chapel Hill. He had a wine spot on NPR in the ’90s and has been a continuously published wine journalist since 1997. He has won national awards for his work and is currently writing for Durham Magazine and its weekly blog, “Wine Wednesdays”. In addition, he loves teaching the clarinet. Read more on his website.
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