Petite Sirah has had a recent popularity resurgence. It never truly went out of style, but its midnight dark color, viscous texture and strong tannins made it less of an everyday dinner choice. And although “drinkability” seems to be a prime buzzword today, at least one estate has never allowed its version to go out of style. It’s Napa Valley’s Stags’ Leap Winery, (notice the plural possessive). There are two properties that share this name; Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars (singular possessive) and today’s property — the older of the two — established in 1893. While other vineyards tore out Petite Sirah vines in the ’60s and ’70s, Stags’ Leap has nurtured its five-acre patch for more than 80 years.
The wine is called “Ne Cede Malis,” which roughly translates as “don’t give in to adversity.” It was the family motto of Stags’ Leap founder, Horace Chase. The manor house on the property is well worth a visit (by appointment only), containing the very first indoor pool in Napa and a resident ghost among its attractions. The property ain’t shabby either — the glorious Vaca Mountain range abuts the valley where the Petite Sirah grows. Although former winemaker Robert Brittan made imposing versions of this wine, current winemaker Christophe Paubert has somewhat softened the blow. His most recent bottling, the 2012, is one of the most exciting young Petite Sirahs on the market today. This is a wine for collectors or simply those who want to taste what can be achieved with this imposing grape.
2012 Ne Cede Malis, Estate Petite Sirah, Stags’ Leap Winery $90 srp
Saturated purple color, with glass-coating “legs.” A smorgasbord of scents — blackberry compote, iodine, pepper, tar, mountain herbs and vanilla all blend on the astonishing nose. Flavors are reminiscent of a dark cherry/fig cobbler without the sweetness. Juicy mouth-filling flavors suggest licorice, allspice, meatiness and earth. This is a remarkable glass of wine. (85% Petite Sirah with more than 15 other varied grapes in the five-acre field blend) Remarkably approachable today, please open at least three hours before serving. Drink now-2021.
93/100 points
To purchase this bottle of wine or to find something similar from a wide selection of wines, email or call Hope Valley Bottle Shop at 919-403-5200. Don’t miss their free wine tastings every Saturday evening from 4:30 to 7:00 p.m. Find your favorite bottle or expand your palate with something new from Hope Valley Bottle Shop — South Durham’s original bottle shop. Visit them at the Woodcroft Shopping Center or at hvbottleshop.com.
