Get a Front-Row Seat to Flavor at Durham’s Top Spots for Bar Service

Skip the reservations and grab a seat at the bar for personalized attention, unique menus and prime views of the action at these downtown hot spots

By Leah Berry | Photography by John Michael Simpson

Downtown’s dining scene is hotter than ever, which can make landing a reservation tricky – especially on evenings that coincide with shows, festivals and concerts. Fortunately, many restaurants offer walk-up bar service, which oftentimes are the best seats in the house. These spots offer an up-close view of the action, personalized service and a chance to chat with the pros behind the counter – making it an ideal setting for a spontaneous date, a quick solo bite, or sipping and savoring before a night out on the town.

Pizzeria Toro is a tried-and-true go-to for wood-fired pies and a wide assortment of Italian wines. The restaurant doesn’t take reservations, but if you’re able to squeeze your way inside the bustling hot spot, take a seat at the bar for a casual yet intimate experience. Owner Gray Brooks describes it as “dinner and a show.”

“We understand that you lose the ability to watch our chef and cooks make pizza in our oven, so our bartenders make up for it with their sparkling personalities,” Gray says. Popular dishes include the ricotta dumplings (look out for a butternut squash version alongside pumpkin caponata and delicata squash pizza this fall!), burrata and Tuscan kale salad.

Darker beers, bigger wines and bolder cocktails are on the roster – an in-house favorite is the CynarTown, which combines gin, sweet vermouth and the bitter Italian artichoke liqueur Cynar for a fun take on the classic Negroni. Plan your visit during a weekend lunch for a more laid-back experience. But if you want to see the pros handle fire firsthand, Friday through Sunday nights are the way to go. “We’re a great place to grab a quick meal before a DPAC or Carolina Theatre show,” Gray says. “We specialize in getting you in and out quickly.”

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Any time is the right time to enjoy the authentic Greek cuisine at Nikos in Brightleaf Square, but stop by from 5-6 p.m. to treat yourself to Opa! Hour with daily meze specials alongside cocktails that are only available at the bar. The restaurant also offers a rotating selection of bar-exclusive cocktails, which contain either hard-to-source ingredients or have lengthy prep processes, “but cocktail enthusiasts will really love them,” Manager Hannah DeNuzzi says. Hannah’s personal favorite is the “Ou Me Fizz,” which features Reposado tequila, ouzo, blood orange juice, rose and orange bitters, egg white and club soda. “This recipe calls for a two-minute dry shake to achieve the proper fizz and frothiness, and it’s delicious,” Hannah says.

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Mothers & Sons Trattoria is best known for its handmade pasta and variety of regional Italian specialty dishes. Opt for the small, six-seat bar in the main dining area or the additional eight-seat Alimentari bar in the second dining room, which is only available on Friday and Saturday nights and provides a quieter, more intimate vibe. “Getting a few smaller courses to share with a friend or two seems to be a popular way to eat here at the main bar,” says General Manager Kevin Bullick, adding that the Alimentari bar is better for a full meal. Bar seating is first come, first served, and Kevin advises guests make a point to swing by this fall for bevvies made with housemade amaretto and limoncello. “If you are trying to get a quick bite before a show, I would suggest getting here right at 5 p.m. when we open,” Kevin says. Looking for something more leisurely? Stroll in after 8 p.m. when it’s easier to grab a seat.

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NanaSteak and Seraphine are beloved Bull City favorites known for their diverse offerings, elegant atmospheres and top-notch bar service. The bar and lounge at NanaSteak features 11 dining tables, along with the bar rail itself, which are surrounded by floor-to-ceiling windows that cast afternoon light on the restaurant’s extensive bourbon selection. “Guests receive the same attentive fine dining table service, in a slightly more casual atmosphere,” NanaSteak and Seraphine Operations Manager Megan Weddington says. “We do offer our fabulous housemade smashburger in the [NanaSteak] bar only, so we find that some folks will request the bar dining areas just to enjoy that.” Seraphine’s cozy bar, with its striking black walnut arches and gold leaf accents, is a lively and effervescent atmosphere perfect for sharing a large tray of roasted oysters.

The bartenders at both restaurants are “artisans [who] are excited to create relationships with guests and help guide them through their dining experience,” Megan says. Menus at both locations change seasonally, with chefs and beverage directors designing daily off-menu specials. Megan advises stopping in at 5 p.m. sharp (4 p.m. on Sundays) to ensure a bar seat, especially on DPAC show nights.

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Art museum and boutique hotel 21c Museum Hotel’s Counting House showcases inventive regional American fare in a chic setting. The bar area offers comfortable seating with sofas and low tables set against expansive windows in addition to the high-top tables and the bar itself. Marketing Manager Katie Blevins recommends a drink and shareable selections like the  chargrilled oysters and smoked trout dip. Counting House’s Underground Cocktail Series returns in October, showcasing new, experimental and thematic cocktails in a setting that embraces the building’s art deco ambiance and historic charm. Stop by for breakfast, lunch or dinner, but, “that said,” Katie adds, “sometimes there’s nothing better than a dessert and an espresso martini at the bar to end your night.”

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Cucciolo Osteria owner and Duke University graduate Jimmy Kim notes the bar at the modern Italian restaurant offers a more personal touch to your dining experience, which guests often take advantage of by stopping in for drinks and sharing small bites including the prosciutto with gnocco fritto, chicken liver pâté and arancini. Jimmy advises that an early dinner – between 5 and 6 p.m. – on weekdays is ideal for a more relaxed experience, but says that a last-minute family dinner at the bar is doable as well. “Our bartenders know how to please [the kids] with mocktails,” Jimmy says. 

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At Mateo, Spanish small plates infused with a Southern twist are expertly paired with an extensive selection of Spanish wines – including one of the East Coast’s largest sherry menus. “For those who love a sherry, specifically, you’ll receive a more in-depth, knowledgeable experience at the bar,” says General Manager Amber Griffor. The Mateo bar burger – a smash-style burger made with Tetilla cheese, Mateo sauce and crispy onions on a Ninth Street Bakery bun – is a must-try, available exclusively at the bar in limited quantities each night. “Every spot at our bar is unique and offers a great view,” Amber says, “from our open kitchen to our extensive beverage options and Trabanco cider pouring arm (which is one of only two in the United States).” Expect warm fall flavors of cranberry, baking spices and squash on Mateo’s new seasonal dinner menu, ideal for a quick bite pre- or post-DPAC or Carolina Theatre showings. “It’s also a lot of fun to grab a dessert and some sherry at the end of your evening!” Amber says.

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Modern cocktail bar La Mala made its debut in the Bull City last year and specializes in authentic Mexican street food and inspired drinks. Owner and CEO Jessie Monsivais says the bar is a good option if you’re looking for comprehensive cocktail knowledge – the La Amante and Agua Fresca are top-tier, FYI. “At the bar, our mixologist[s] can answer [questions] one-on-one,” Jessie says. 

There might be a wait at the bar on Fridays and Saturdays, which feature DJ sets; Jessie says it’s quicker to score a seat during the week. The ceviche, guacamole and Mexican fries are popular bar bites, and don’t sleep on the Taco Tuesday special (half off an order of tacos with the purchase of a margarita).