Our guide to some of the city’s finest franks
By Matthew Lardie | Photography by John Michael Simpson
The dog days of summer are still very much with us, which means there is plenty of time to enjoy one of the season’s most iconic eats – the hot dog. The Bull City knows how to do a good dog, and we’ve got all the bases covered, literally (looking at you, Durham Bulls). From traditional Carolina dogs to more indulgent versions, here are some hot dogs that you won’t want to miss out on.
Tail-Wagging Tastes
The Dog House has been a Durham family favorite for more than 50 years, perhaps known just as much for its iconic doghouse-shaped buildings as for its actual hot dogs. With three locations serving up classic Southern hot dogs, it’s easy to see why The Dog House ranks toward the top of most people’s lists of the best hot dog joints in town. It’s hard to beat its combination of affordability and variety, with options like the Boxer Dog (mustard, onions, chili), The Ol’ Yallow (mustard, cheese sauce, bacon bits) and the German Shepherd (spicy mustard and sauerkraut) all coming in under $3. There’s an option to upgrade any dog to an all-beef hot dog, or round it out with a combo plate for the full Dog House experience.
Bun Believable
Locals have long lauded Dain’s Place for its burgers, but real ones know not to sleep on the hot dog. Owner Dain Phelan and his team dish out a hearty all-beef kosher dog on a freshly baked roll with a seemingly endless array of add-ons. The homemade sweet beef chili is a strong contender for top topping, and when combined with the restaurant’s coleslaw and pimento cheese, it could put this dog in the running for Best Carolina-Style Dog in Durham. Those who like their dogs a little funky might want to opt for horseradish sauce and bacon, or perhaps Gorgonzola cheese and grilled onions. Add on a basket of Dain’s famous tater tots, and you’ve got yourself one of the yummiest hot dog meals in the Bull City.
A No-Frills Fave
There’s a little spot on Angier Avenue in East Durham that looks like it’s been there forever, because it practically has. L&D Grocery is a cash-only joint that’s served straightforward Southern diner staples – from fried bologna sandwiches and fried chicken to, you guessed it, classic hot dogs – for generations. “It’s unassuming, unpretentious deliciousness,” says lifelong Durhamite Amos Cooper Jr., who’s been dining at L&D since childhood. “It reminds you of the kind of places your grandparents would take you as a kid. It still has that small-town charm in a growing city.”
As for what to order, Amos has a strict rule: “There is only one way! Carolina style!”
Dugout Dogs
Hot dogs and baseball go together, well, kind of like America and baseball. Durham Bulls fans and foodies alike can indulge in some of the best dogs in town during home games at the Durham Bulls Athletic Park. The all-beef hot dogs are perennial favorites, and they can be ordered three ways: There’s the prototypical Carolina Dog with chili and slaw; the Chili Cheese Dog with simple, melty, yellow American cheese sauce and chili; and the All the Way, which combines the two in the best way. There’s also an Impossible Dog for vegetarians and vegans, and you could always just get a plain hot dog – the ballpark offers Dollar Dogs on Thursdays, where regular hot dogs are only a buck. Pair that with Helmet Nachos, some sunflower seeds, and a soft pretzel or two, and you’ve got a home run of a meal.
Haute Dog Hour
Chef Carrie Schleiffer’s menu at Alley Twenty Six has earned many accolades over the years, but the new late-night edition is designed specifically for those who might need one more bite before calling a rideshare and heading home. It’s got Alley classics like the Alley burger, coconut shrimp, and caviar and tots, but the Brasstown Beef hot dog is the go-to for many folks. Served with Alley’s house-cut fries, the dog can come plain (with ketchup and mustard), with slaw or with pimento cheese. Need more? There’s a chili cheese dog with housemade chili, shredded cheddar and bacon bits. Want the ultimate in late-night meals? Order the caviar and tots, a chili cheese dog and a perfectly chilled martini. That’s a high-and-low combo that is pretty hard to beat any time of the year.
Griddle Me This
Tony Cates graduated from a mobile cart to a brick-and-mortar, moving into the former Joe’s Diner space at the intersection of Angier Avenue and Driver Street in Old East Durham. The menu at Cates Cookout reads like a greatest hits list from the best family cookout you’ve ever attended. There’s fried fish and chicken, plenty of sides and, of course, hot dogs. This author’s go-to order is the all-beef hot dog platter, dog done all the way (chili, slaw, mustard, onions) with Cates’ seasoned crinkle fries and a cold glass of homemade lemonade. The hot dogs are griddled rather than simply boiled and retain a bit of texture and bite – perfect for supporting all the generous layers of delicious toppings Cates and his crew pile on top. Dine in and enjoy the historic old diner counter, where countless Durhamites have enjoyed great hot dogs over the years.
Famous Fixins
Jimmy’s Famous Hot Dogs boasts two locations of its characteristic drive-in style fast food joint, offering diners the chance to indulge in both nostalgia and a great dog (or two, or three). The No. 1 combo comes with two Nathan’s hot dogs served all the way (with Jimmy’s chili, slaw, mustard and onions), fries and a fountain drink. An upgrade to all-beef dogs is available for $1.29 more. They’ve also got a footlong with chili, and the “Jimmy’s Famous” dog, which comes with chili and cheese sauce.
Where Jimmy’s stands out, besides its old-school charm, is with its mix-and-match toppings. In addition to those aforementioned, you can opt to add jalapeños, relish, ketchup, bacon, sweet red onion sauce, spicy brown mustard, sliced cheese, grilled onions or cheddar cheese sauce – easily taking an “all the way” dog to “the whole dang way.”
Worth Barkin’ About
QueDogs is a family operation that takes two of the South’s most beloved foods (barbecue and hot dogs) and serves them in a delicious mashup that is their namesake, the QueDog. Brother-and-sister owners Patrick Johnson and Kathryn Johnson Thompson also graduated from a mobile cart to a brick-and-mortar location in the Lakewood Shopping Center. The signature QueDog is a beef or pork hot dog topped with their father, Harold Johnson’s, famous barbecue. Get it all the way (ATW) with their homemade chili, red onions and slaw if you’re feeling truly indulgent. “We try to make everyone who comes up to our little dog hut feel like family,” Kathryn says. “Our homemade chili and smoky barbecue, both made in house with love, keep our regular customers coming.”
For the Johnsons, QueDogs is all about amping up the quintessential hot dog experience: “For a dog to be great, it has to have the right bite, texture and flavor,” Kathryn says. “Let’s be honest, for the most part, hot dog joints have similar toppings, but how you set your toppings apart from your competitors is what matters.” At QueDogs, they’ve clearly figured out that a “best of both worlds” approach is the way to go.
Franks for Coming
Yes, The Pushcart is technically not from Durham. It’s a hot dog cart from Oxford, North Carolina’s Ray Williams and Anna Housman, and it pops up in the Bull City so frequently that we might as well call it our own. As Ray and Anna work to transform an old church in Oxford into an all-day eatery, cafe, gallery and community space called Sanctum, they’ve given Durham folks a taste of their off-the-wall hot dog combinations at locales like wine bar Delafia and The Common Market. The pair serve beloved North Carolina Bright Leaf hot dogs, with versions like the “Smells Like Teen Spirit” (a dog with candied jalapeños, griddled onions, “Ranch” cream cheese and Everything seasoning) or the “Kimcheese” (kimchi, scallions, yum yum sauce, furikake and a crisp cheese “skirt”). A favorite of this author is the “Sonoran-ish” dog, an ode to northern Mexican cuisine that sees one of those Bright Leaf dogs topped with bacon, charro beans, a beet curtido, cilantro and Mexican mayonesa. The menu shifts with each new pop-up, so following The Pushcart on Instagram is the best way to figure out what and where it’ll be serving next!
