We asked the folks behind Durham’s hottest new restaurants what makes each one stand out
By Renee Ambroso | Photography by John Michael Simpson
AAKTUN
The Ramseur Street building was vacant. It stood empty while neighbors Mezcalito and Ponysaurus Brewing Co. teemed with activity.
Envisioning the space as an elevated eatery was a tall task, even for the creative mind of two-time James Beard Award semifinalist chef Oscar Diaz. “[We learned] there were only windows in the front,” he says. “I thought, ‘I’m not sure I’ve ever been to a restaurant with no windows.'” The structure presented a challenge that might have deterred a less inspired entrepreneur, but Oscar’s inventive nature spurred him to think up solutions.
He drew upon his passion for design – “I’m subscribed to Architectural Digest,” he says – and memories of vacationing in Tulum, Mexico, to develop a concept tailored to the unique characteristics of the space.
“We started thinking of it like a cenote,” Oscar says, referencing deep sinkholes that draw tourists wanting to swim in these natural phenomena found within the Yucatan Peninsula. “We wanted to make it cave-like.” It felt fitting to name the spot Aaktun, which means cave in Mayan, he says.
The fragrance of freshly brewed espresso and the hiss of a steam wand fills Aaktun’s brightly decorated foyer, which operates as a casual cafe. Down a dimly lit hallway, the dining room and bar appear like a hidden oasis where organic shapes, natural textures and clusters of leafy plants create the vibe of a lively, secluded terrarium. Skylights dot the ceiling, allowing natural light to filter in.
“The design came first,” Oscar says, but the food was far from an afterthought. The chef – who opened Little Bull, named one of Durham’s best overall restaurants by our readers – saw in Aaktun an opportunity to explore multiple cuisines, as well as modes of food service, all under one roof.
Peruvian, Colombian and Chilean influences shape the breakfast, lunch and dinner menus, which Oscar developed in collaboration with chef de cuisine Juan Camilo Espada, he says. “We [researched] dishes that are popular [in Latin America] and began tasting them and working on making them ours,” Oscar says. Traditional Latin American flavor profiles and techniques serve as blueprints, while ingredients common in other cuisines, such as fish sauce, add unexpected flair. “I love that playfulness of mixing cultures,” Oscar says. “I don’t want to follow rules.”
Aaktun’s atypical layout also allows for this creative dining experience to pair with a drop-in cafe. “I had always wanted to [open] a coffee shop but felt that an independent one might be difficult to make [profitable] if not in a high-volume area,” Oscar says. Aaktun’s coffee bar serves grab-and-go baked goods, including everyday Latin American pastries with a twist, such as the pan de bono, a “Colombian-inspired, gluten-free yucca bread” stuffed with guava paste.
The Mexican American hails from Chicago and performed as a DJ before sharpening his skills as a chef at Michelin-starred restaurants. Oscar first made his mark locally at Raleigh’s now-shuttered Cortez. He says that subsequently spearheading his own eateries has affirmed his sense of self: “[After] all these years of traveling and cooking in different types of kitchens, I think I’m starting to find an identity.”
Like Oscar, Aaktun has a lively, upbeat side. In May, extended late-night hours on Saturdays paired with performances by local DJs, turning the dining room and bar into a dance club. “I wanted to bring [that element of] entertainment [to Aaktun],” Oscar says. “We don’t take ourselves that seriously.”
Oscar and his business partners at the Mezcalito Group haven’t let up off the gas since Aaktun opened this past fall: They opened both a Clayton outpost of the restaurant as well as TaTaco, a casual, mercado-inspired spot in the DIY District, in March. They’re also partnering to revamp the former Lonerider Distillery and Taproom location adjacent to Aaktun and Mezcalito, and plan to transform the space into a dive bar called Barbaro, which will serve build-your-own instant ramen bowls, barbacoa and smoked meats. Oscar’s also working to open Adios! at Raleigh-Durham International Airport‘s Terminal 2.
Oscar’s momentum, evidently, is only growing. It’s just as well, as many Durhamites have welcomed his originality and willingness to push the envelope; our readers named Aaktun one of the city’s best new restaurants. “I wanted to be a little out-of-the-box,” Oscar says. “Everything I do is unorthodox – why stop now when it’s become my calling card?”
EMMY SQUARED
Emmy Squared serves up Detroit-style pies in Brightleaf Square, but it doesn’t stop at that: The menu rounds out with delectable appetizers, salads, burgers, sandwiches and craft cocktails. The Brooklyn-born concept also serves locally brewed beer: favorites from Fullsteam, Durty Bull Brewing Company, Ponysaurus Brewing Co. and Bull City Ciderworks can be found on tap, plus North Carolina-based brands such as Red Oak Brewery and Sycamore Brewing.
The stacked lineup of local craft brews is part of the national brand’s attempt to create a dining experience that weaves together its signature slices with the foodie culture of the area. Durham’s abundance of diverse foodways is part of what drew Emmy Squared to the city, says its head of marketing, Senior Vice President Sergio Pérez. “We looked at hubs where there was an intersection [among] food, culture, art and just an appreciation for elevated culinary experiences,” he says.
Each outpost of Emmy Squared is designed with decor that incorporates local art and special menu items tailored to the location. “Durham, specifically, has a cocktail [on the menu] that gives a nod to Duke and the history and roots the university has in this part of the world,” Sergio says. Meanwhile the cocktail mixers – such as the Hibiscus Habanero featured in the margarita – come from Charlotte’s Spirits of Alchemy.
But back to the star of the show – the pizzas! The attention to detail all starts with the dough, which is made in small batches daily. “It’s a caramelized, cheesy crust around the pizza that gives you a really nice bite … but it’s also light and airy because it’s a triple-rise dough,” Sergio says. If you can’t decide from the offerings that range from the “Meatsiah” (sausage, bacon and sirloin) to the four-cheese “Miranda,” go with the biggest crowd-pleaser: The most popular pie is the “Colony,” which comes with red sauce, house-pickled jalapenos, pepperoni and honey.
THAIANGLE
Jack Ungsriwong is no newbie in the restaurant biz, having operated Carrboro’s Cham Thai for close to three years. After struggling with health issues and staffing shortages, he retired to his native Thailand for a few months before realizing that he deeply missed the Triangle and his role as a restaurateur.
Jack decided he wanted to be part of the growth he’d noticed taking place throughout Durham’s vibrant downtown. Here, he sought and found a tight-knit, supportive community, from local leaders to friends, who helped him open a new eatery in the former Dos Perros space.
Thaiangle opened in the Mangum Street building, where wide arched windows allow diners an unobstructed view of the city center, in February 2024. The vibrantly painted walls are decorated with pieces of art from Jack’s homeland, like a tapestry of Phaya Nak, a mythical creature with connections to Buddhism, monarchy, medicine and religion.
Thaiangle serves dishes you’d find in Thailand, including classics such as pad thai, tom yum, thai basil and thai fried rice. “[These] are the pillars of what you’d find at almost every Thai restaurant,” he says. “We serve food that reminds us of home [and that], hopefully, will provide you with comfort and warmth.” Yet, the menu is also interspersed with American Chinese flavors that Jack has come across during his years living in the United States, and he puts a “Thai spin” on kung pao and Mongolian favorites, too. Staple ingredients like fish sauce, curry paste, coconut milk, and Thai herbs and spices round out these dishes, achieving careful balance among salty, savory, sweet, sour and spicy.
This melding of American and Asian cuisines echoes the multiplicity of Thai culture itself.
“Thailand has a diverse population,” Jack says, pointing out that many Indian, Chinese, Malay and Burmese communities exist within the country. “As they have integrated into Thai society, so have their foods and cultures. … There are new dishes being made and popularized by the mixing of cultures – something we believe should be celebrated!”
Jack and his family members each have their own personal favorites that have earned spots on Thaiangle’s lunch and dinner menus. Jack is partial to the khao soi, a chicken dish with steamed egg noodles, scallions and cilantro, all tossed in a northern Thai-style curry and topped with crispy noodles. Khao soi is served with kimchi, red onions, bean sprouts and chiles steeped in oil on the side – an appropriate accoutrement to this hearty, flavorful meal. As for our recommendation, we’re eyeing the next open dinner reservation to dive into the “Thaiangle Trout” – a deep-fried, boneless whole fish piled high with fresh chiles, carrots, bell peppers, spicy garlic sauce and crispy basil.
Jack has crafted more than just a menu at Thaiangle – he’s created a warm, vibrant reflection of the many places and flavors that shaped him. From the downtown views through those sweeping windows to the fusion of tradition and reinvention on each plate, the restaurant is a love letter to both Thailand and the Triangle. And with Thaiangle landing on this year’s Best of Durham list for new restaurant, it seems the feeling is mutual.
PATTY BOY
Marshall Davis and Angela Salamanca had their sights set on a vacant stall in the Durham Food Hall. It was just a few steps from Ex-Voto, their playful Mexican food haven. The bigger leap would be piecing together a fresh concept centered on American fast-casual staples, a departure from the foodways they’d focused on since they first partnered up as proprietors of Raleigh’s Gallo Pelón Mezcaleria, which operated from 2015 till May 2025.
“We studied what was missing in the food hall and had a conversation with our chef [Dallas Howard],” Marshall says. “He’s from rural North Carolina and is a meat-and-potatoes kind of guy. [We noticed] ever since Old North Meats & Provisions left, there’s no one doing burgers or fried chicken.” The team also noted the lack of fare geared toward families. “There weren’t many [nearby dining] options for families [enjoying] Durham Central Park and that community space, which is why we opened Patty Boy,” Marshall says. “[Our kids meal] has been super popular, and we have a Big Kid’s meal for adults with a Lego set – something [many] adults enjoy.”
Patty Boy offers Oklahoma-style, onion-heavy smashburgers that are pressed “pretty darn thin,” Marshall says, creating crispy, lacy edges. The patties are sandwiched between buttery Martin’s Famous Potato Rolls and Bread sliders and dressed with a secret sauce based on “the holy trinity of mayonnaise, mustard and ketchup,” plus cherry peppers for a spicy kick. A vegetarian burger is available, made with patties that are shaped and proportioned specially for Patty Boy by Impossible Foods.
The menu is imbued with eastern North Carolina influences as well, Marshall says, in the techniques that are used for preparing fried chicken and composing sauces: The “Redneck Polynesian” is a blend of vinegar-based barbecue sauce – sourced from Kinston’s Kings Restaurant – ketchup and Texas Pete. Other North Carolina products and produce are highlighted throughout the menu, such as hoop cheese from Ashe County, green tomatoes from Wendell’s Blue Sky Farms and shrimp from Durham Food Hall neighbor and fellow Best of Durham winner Locals Seafood.
“There are lots of great burgers in Durham,” Marshall concedes, but he believes what makes Patty Boy stand out isn’t the crispy patties or even its slick, ’50s-inspired branding. “I think a major part of the experience of eating a Patty Burger is that it’s served by a team that is genuinely invested in your having an [exceptional] meal,” Marshall says. “If we ever fall short, I guarantee we’ll make it right if given the chance, and that isn’t the case everywhere else.”
