A Greek Grape Gets Back to Its Roots

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Grecante Wine WednesdayGrechetto is a grape of ancient Greek origin that today is a mainstay in the white wines of Italy’s Umbria region. Best known as part of the blend in the wines of Orvieto, it is sometimes bottled as a standalone varietal. If it tastes the way Arnaldo Caprai makes it, that should be happening way more often! This 100% Grechetto has the body to make a sweet wine like Vin Santo but, when vinified totally dry, you get that body and generosity with a steely freshness that is beguiling. This is a fascinating wine, once again proving that indigenous grapes are often the best route towards making wines of character.

2015 Grecante, Grechetto Colli Martani, Arnaldo Caprai $20 srp

Lovely, translucent egg white color. A full bore bouquet of lemon curd, ripe apple and stone fruit – brisk yet robust. Flavors are lean but laser-sharp and focused. Completely mouth cleansing flavor without bite nor bitterness. A wake-up call of refreshment! Pair with shellfish, mackerel or a couscous salad. Drink now-2017.

90/100 points

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Arturo Ciompi

Trained as a classical clarinetist and conductor, Arturo plied his trade for many years in New York, performing with the Orpheus Chamber Orchestra, New York City Opera, the American Symphony and countless chamber music groups. While living in Durham, Arturo became the wine manager at two iconic gourmet stores: Fowler’s in Durham and Southern Season in Chapel Hill. He had a wine spot on NPR in the ’90s and has been a continuously published wine journalist since 1997. He has won national awards for his work and is currently writing for Durham Magazine and its weekly blog, “Wine Wednesdays”. In addition, he loves teaching the clarinet. Read more on his website.
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