Windswept White

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imagesI last reviewed Mazzoni Vermentino-Chardonnay from the 2011 vintage. The wine partnership between the Terlato family (prestigious importers) and the venerable Franceschi family of Montalcino produces a number of “co-authored” wines. In the less-than-stellar 2014 vintage, today’s offering still manages to bring out the “gee whiz, how much fun can a white wine be,” element. The bouquet of Vermentino is unique — spicy, windswept and buoyant. It just bursts from the glass and promises a grand time, with or without food.

2014 Mazzoni Vermentino-Chardonnay, Toscana $19 srp

Light straw yellow in color. A vivid nose of spicy pear, grapefruit with steel-like freshness and grassy overtones. Flavors are spanking clean and ebullient with excellent acidity keeping the wine “high-toned.” Twenty-five percent Chardonnay broadens the mouth texture, but the Vermentino brashness conquers all. Juicy and mineral-laden, it comes up a bit short on the finish, but is a natural for shellfish, lemon poultry or rainbow trout. Nicely done! Drink now-2016.

87/100 points

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Arturo Ciompi

Trained as a classical clarinetist and conductor, Arturo plied his trade for many years in New York, performing with the Orpheus Chamber Orchestra, New York City Opera, the American Symphony and countless chamber music groups. While living in Durham, Arturo became the wine manager at two iconic gourmet stores: Fowler’s in Durham and Southern Season in Chapel Hill. He had a wine spot on NPR in the ’90s and has been a continuously published wine journalist since 1997. He has won national awards for his work and is currently writing for Durham Magazine and its weekly blog, “Wine Wednesdays”. In addition, he loves teaching the clarinet. Read more on his website.
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