It’s that time of year. Time to remind people that the wine known as Sherry can be bone dry! Restaurants such as Six Plates and Mateo here in Durham want you to know this, and so do I. Is there anything more wonderful than a Fino Sherry to accompany fresh shrimp, Jamon Serrano, Marcona almonds, aged Manchego and Manzanilla olives?
One of the standard-bearers for Fino Sherry (made from the Palomino grape) is Gonzalez Byass, and their proprietary brand Tio Pepe. If you haven’t tried this, make sure the bottle is ice cold and relish it with tapas and a myriad of small plate appetizers. But beware — it goes down so very easily and belies its 15% alcohol content!
Tio Pepe, Fino Muy Seco, Palomino Fino Sherry, Gonzalez Byass $15-17 srp
Clear, pale, lemon-tinged color. Light apple scents with elements of nuts, smoke, minerals and a “briny” quality. Tangy, almost salty flavors that are savory with a yeasty, lemony bite (great acidity). This is first-rate Fino. (95% Palomino, 5% Pedro Ximenez.) Serve very cold and drink now.
91/100 points — Excellent value

