Oh, Sherry

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imagesIt’s that time of year. Time to remind people that the wine known as Sherry can be bone dry! Restaurants such as Six Plates and Mateo here in Durham want you to know this, and so do I. Is there anything more wonderful than a Fino Sherry to accompany fresh shrimp, Jamon Serrano, Marcona almonds, aged Manchego and Manzanilla olives?

One of the standard-bearers for Fino Sherry (made from the Palomino grape) is Gonzalez Byass, and their proprietary brand Tio Pepe. If you haven’t tried this, make sure the bottle is ice cold and relish it with tapas and a myriad of small plate appetizers. But beware — it goes down so very easily and belies its 15% alcohol content!

Tio Pepe, Fino Muy Seco, Palomino Fino Sherry, Gonzalez Byass $15-17 srp

Clear, pale, lemon-tinged color. Light apple scents with elements of nuts, smoke, minerals and a “briny” quality. Tangy, almost salty flavors that are savory with a yeasty, lemony bite (great acidity). This is first-rate Fino. (95% Palomino, 5% Pedro Ximenez.) Serve very cold and drink now.

91/100 points — Excellent value

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Arturo Ciompi

Trained as a classical clarinetist and conductor, Arturo plied his trade for many years in New York, performing with the Orpheus Chamber Orchestra, New York City Opera, the American Symphony and countless chamber music groups. While living in Durham, Arturo became the wine manager at two iconic gourmet stores: Fowler’s in Durham and Southern Season in Chapel Hill. He had a wine spot on NPR in the ’90s and has been a continuously published wine journalist since 1997. He has won national awards for his work and is currently writing for Durham Magazine and its weekly blog, “Wine Wednesdays”. In addition, he loves teaching the clarinet. Read more on his website.
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