Reverence for Rioja

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campo-viejo-rioja-gran-reserva-2005Rioja’s Gran Reserva bottlings seem to be less and less appreciated in the world market of today. The thinking behind this category is culling the finest grapes of the vintage, (not made every year, by the way) age two years in oak barrels and then three years in bottle before release. The result is very special, and we as consumers pay surprisingly few extra dollars for all the work and pride behind these exquisite products. Having just tasted the 2009 new release from Campo Viejo, I thought it was time to chime in again on these rare specialties.

2009 Campo Viejo Gran Reserva, Rioja $25-26 srp*

Gorgeous, deep garnet color. Beguiling, profound nose of black cherry, red plum and mountain herbs, all resting on a plush oak cushion. A luxurious, Rolls Royce amalgam of fruit and vanilla with chocolatey overtones. Flavors are still compact but richly textured. The mouth feel is sensuous, with life-affirming acid and tannins masked by effusive fruit compote. Even better 24 hours later having used nitrogen gas preservation. A wonderfully integrated nose and palate promising long life ahead. (85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, 5% Mazuelo.) Drink now-2024

92+/100 points

*Readily available in the Triangle market.

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Arturo Ciompi

Trained as a classical clarinetist and conductor, Arturo plied his trade for many years in New York, performing with the Orpheus Chamber Orchestra, New York City Opera, the American Symphony and countless chamber music groups. While living in Durham, Arturo became the wine manager at two iconic gourmet stores: Fowler’s in Durham and Southern Season in Chapel Hill. He had a wine spot on NPR in the ’90s and has been a continuously published wine journalist since 1997. He has won national awards for his work and is currently writing for Durham Magazine and its weekly blog, “Wine Wednesdays”. In addition, he loves teaching the clarinet. Read more on his website.
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