‘Classic Nebbiolo’

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nebbiolo-martinenga-langhe-docDalla Terra Winery Direct and The Country Vintner recently presented a wonderful quintet of fine Italian wine estates at The King’s Daughters Inn, a wonderful Durham landmark that presides in style across from Duke University’s East Campus. The venerable Marchese di Grésy Estate from the Piemonte region was represented by Alberto and Ludovica — two of the estate’s namesakes. Speaking Italian with Alberto was great, and enlightening, fun. His wines are old-fashionedly extraordinary in the best sense of that term. His Barbarescos are slow-developing, agile reds that take some years of cellaring to show their seamless mettle. But their “simple” Nebbiolo delle Langhe, un-oaked and fruit-forward, was a revelation and most insightful to collectors of just how good this vintage is.

2013 Tenuta Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy, Langhe Nebbiolo DOC, “Martinenga” $23 srp

Translucent crimson color. A fantastic nose suggesting dried flowers, raspberry and cherry, with leather, smoke, tar and orange-like overtones. In other words, classic nebbiolo! Flavors are ripe and juicy, medium-bodied, with dried cherry elements and a creaminess presenting perfect balance. This can age a bit, but there’s really no need. It is simply delicious and almost a primer on what this grape is all about. Bravi!

92/100 points

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Arturo Ciompi

Trained as a classical clarinetist and conductor, Arturo plied his trade for many years in New York, performing with the Orpheus Chamber Orchestra, New York City Opera, the American Symphony and countless chamber music groups. While living in Durham, Arturo became the wine manager at two iconic gourmet stores: Fowler’s in Durham and Southern Season in Chapel Hill. He had a wine spot on NPR in the ’90s and has been a continuously published wine journalist since 1997. He has won national awards for his work and is currently writing for Durham Magazine and its weekly blog, “Wine Wednesdays”. In addition, he loves teaching the clarinet. Read more on his website.
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