Dalla Terra Winery Direct and The Country Vintner recently presented a wonderful quintet of fine Italian wine estates at The King’s Daughters Inn, a wonderful Durham landmark that presides in style across from Duke University’s East Campus. The venerable Marchese di Grésy Estate from the Piemonte region was represented by Alberto and Ludovica — two of the estate’s namesakes. Speaking Italian with Alberto was great, and enlightening, fun. His wines are old-fashionedly extraordinary in the best sense of that term. His Barbarescos are slow-developing, agile reds that take some years of cellaring to show their seamless mettle. But their “simple” Nebbiolo delle Langhe, un-oaked and fruit-forward, was a revelation and most insightful to collectors of just how good this vintage is.
2013 Tenuta Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy, Langhe Nebbiolo DOC, “Martinenga” $23 srp
Translucent crimson color. A fantastic nose suggesting dried flowers, raspberry and cherry, with leather, smoke, tar and orange-like overtones. In other words, classic nebbiolo! Flavors are ripe and juicy, medium-bodied, with dried cherry elements and a creaminess presenting perfect balance. This can age a bit, but there’s really no need. It is simply delicious and almost a primer on what this grape is all about. Bravi!
92/100 points

