I’m not much for selling a wine by its label. Cute mammals, birds and amphibians have their place, but not as a sales ploy. However, it’s hard not to love the fanciful labels of Masi, the Italian winemakers of the Veneto region of Italy. This label cries out style and that’s pretty much what is always inside. Masi makes superb Amarone, not to mention its “Campofiorin” red, one of the first iterations of the “ripasso” system that chunks up the texture of Valpolicella. They also make today’s wine, Masianco, a refreshing white based on the Pinot Grigio grape combined with Verduzzo. The use of “drying lofts” to concentrate the Verduzzo grapes after harvest adds to the texture and richness of the final blend.
2014 Masianco, Masi Agricola $13
Pale, yellow-gray color. Uplifting “green” sensations on the nose with citrusy elements that fan out to an underlying richness. Flavors are crisp and tart with a peach/lemon custard quality persisting onto a slate-like refreshing finish. Considering the region’s difficult vintage conditions, this is a delightful effort that calls out for fresh shrimp, crab legs or a simple chicken preparation. (75% Pinot Grigio, 25% Verduzzo)
87/100 points
