I’ve been disappointed in the spate of sparkling wines that have come into the market in recent years. Some producers, trading on the “Prosecco” and “Moscato” names, are making big bucks on fairly miserable products. Those of you not looking for an overly dry bubbly would do far better not risking a no-name bottle and, instead, try this little bargain. Made in the Seine et Marne region of north-central France, Montmartre Brut is a large production, Charmat sparkling wine made from the Ugni Blanc grape. These people do a fine job of blending and creating a delightful “fizz” that is charming with some actual degree of complexity. It may be a bit sweet for some, but when buying for a large, unknown group of tastebuds, it’s a very reasonable way to do the job. When you are mystified by the makers on the shelf (and the price), try this instead.
Montmartre Brut, Non-Vintage $7.99 srp
Gray-green color with soft bubble. Nose of apples and quince that is very inviting. A fresh, full mouthfeel that features bright melon, creamy flavors and a finish of orange that refreshes. Sweetness but liveliness, too — perfect for a summer afternoon. Good with soft cheeses onto cookies and cake.
86/100 points

