When Samuele Sebastiani came to America in 1895, Barbera was one of the grapes he, along with many other Italian immigrants, loved to cultivate. Barbera is that everyday red — dark in color, overt in bouquet, rich on the palate and satisfying without having to think too much. My own extended family drank Barbera at the table, often unbottled, when we’d visit them in Italy’s Piemonte region. And I was also fortunate to try Giacomo Conterno’s Barbera early in life, a rewarding bottling that was served on fancier occasions.
Times change, and so has Barbera. Conterno still makes a great one, but it will run you $45 to $50. But today there are newer, richer styles being made as well; Barberas that are overly extracted, extensively wood-aged like Barolos, uncharacteristically trying to create the proverbial silk purse out of a sow’s ear. What you often get is an aberration of what Barbera has been in the past; that satisfying, unsubtle character to kick back with.
Well, this is the long route to introduce you to a Barbera that takes me back to what I think it should be about, and for $15. Antonio Vallana and Son sits even further north than Barolo country. The wines come from the Novarra hills, with a rockier and more alpine soil, that leads up towards the Italian Alps. Vallana wines have been around for 75 years, and their entire value-priced portfolio is worth your investigation. Their Spanna is a lighter-textured but finely grained, fragrant Nebbiolo-based red. Today’s wine, from a truly great 2013 vintage, is my kind of Barbera. I think you’ll be as impressed as I was.
2013 Barbera, Antonio Vallana e Figlio $15 srp*
Deep, black cherry color. Rustic, strapping nose of brambly fruit, dark yet razor-fresh berry, spices, pepper and an iron filing sensation. Flavors are wonderfully ripe, brash and filled with a “Thanks, I needed that” slap of flavor. Goes down so easily, yet has the stuff to age further if desired. A perfect match for grilled foods and hearty fare. The strong vintage enhances the quality of this old-fashioned producer. Drink now-2019.
91/100 points
*Available at Cave Taureau, among others.
