Finding myself totally in the grip of spring fever, I have found a fun wine that couldn’t be more frivolous, yet there’s real quality underneath its bubbly veneer. Brachetto is a lightly sweet red grape grown in Italy’s Piedmont region. It is mostly made into low-alcohol bubbly on the sweetish side. Sound familiar? But nearby Prosecco has neither the charm nor substance that Brachetto presents. This gorgeous black grape dates back to Roman times. A cute story relates that it was brought to Cleopatra to add to Julius Caesar’s wooing powers. (Seems Marc Anthony had the same idea!) That would surely have been a still wine — which is still produced — but the bubbly version is what sells best today. While today’s wine has a cute name and is clearly fashioned towards a young crowd, it nevertheless doesn’t diminish the quality of what’s inside.
Fizz 56, Sparkling Red Wine, Piemonte DOC Brachetto $16-21 srp
Bright ruby color. Aromatic nose that bursts from the glass with bold strawberry and black raspberry notes. Elements of clove and roses add subtle nuances. It’s a delicious mouthful where cherry flavors dominate. Sweet yet not cloying, it has a refreshing finish that ends cleanly. This is just a blast to drink on a picnic, to sweetly celebrate or to accompany fresh berries, hazelnuts, amaretti cookies and even a creamy tuna salad. (7% alcohol.) Drink now.
89/100 points

