Spring Fever

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fizz_56_spumante__10617.1407758995.1280.1280Finding myself totally in the grip of spring fever, I have found a fun wine that couldn’t be more frivolous, yet there’s real quality underneath its bubbly veneer. Brachetto is a lightly sweet red grape grown in Italy’s Piedmont region. It is mostly made into low-alcohol bubbly on the sweetish side. Sound familiar? But nearby Prosecco has neither the charm nor substance that Brachetto presents. This gorgeous black grape dates back to Roman times. A cute story relates that it was brought to Cleopatra to add to Julius Caesar’s wooing powers. (Seems Marc Anthony had the same idea!) That would surely have been a still wine — which is still produced — but the bubbly version is what sells best today. While today’s wine has a cute name and is clearly fashioned towards a young crowd, it nevertheless doesn’t diminish the quality of what’s inside.

Fizz 56, Sparkling Red Wine, Piemonte DOC Brachetto $16-21 srp

Bright ruby color. Aromatic nose that bursts from the glass with bold strawberry and black raspberry notes. Elements of clove and roses add subtle nuances. It’s a delicious mouthful where cherry flavors dominate. Sweet yet not cloying, it has a refreshing finish that ends cleanly. This is just a blast to drink on a picnic, to sweetly celebrate or to accompany fresh berries, hazelnuts, amaretti cookies and even a creamy tuna salad. (7% alcohol.) Drink now.

89/100 points

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Arturo Ciompi

Trained as a classical clarinetist and conductor, Arturo plied his trade for many years in New York, performing with the Orpheus Chamber Orchestra, New York City Opera, the American Symphony and countless chamber music groups. While living in Durham, Arturo became the wine manager at two iconic gourmet stores: Fowler’s in Durham and Southern Season in Chapel Hill. He had a wine spot on NPR in the ’90s and has been a continuously published wine journalist since 1997. He has won national awards for his work and is currently writing for Durham Magazine and its weekly blog, “Wine Wednesdays”. In addition, he loves teaching the clarinet. Read more on his website.
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