The name Martin Ray connotes great beginnings of modern California viticulture. A protégé of Paul Masson, Ray planted vines in the Santa Cruz mountains in the 1940s, convinced that mountain vineyards would be the answer to quality wines from California. (This thinking of using hillside grapes was prophetic.) He eventually lost his winery, after making some spectacular products, but his name lives on in a new iteration. Now located in the Russian River Valley, winemaker Bill Batchelor has made a beautiful Pinot Noir in 2014. It’s light on its feet, easy on the alcohol and a delicious reminder of the Pinot possibilities in Sonoma County.
2014 Pinot Noir, Martin Ray Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley $30 srp
Pale garnet color with earth-tone flecks. Ripe, strawberry fruited nose. Pure and deep, it wraps around your sinuses with a silky texture that includes dried roses and pungent mountain spices. Flavors are clean and calm with subtle berry fruit and refreshing minerality. There’s an ephemeral lightness to the texture, even though the mouthfeel is middle-weight and not without substance. Neither tiring nor heavy as black cherry notes caress the palate. Drink now-2019. Good value.
91/100 points

