I hate carrots. (There, I said it.) By far my least favorite vegetable. That is, until I tried The Boot executive chef John May‘s carrots and radishes appetizer. The born-and-raised Durhamite recently returned to his home town after spending several years as sous chef at Kinston’s Chef & the Farmer (featured in the PBS show “A Chef’s Life”). The carrots were tender, very lightly treated – it was what I imagine a carrot is supposed to taste like; I must have never eaten it before, because now I craved a second helping. The whipped feta, bright radishes and mustard flowers added beauty and a variety of texture – everything on this plate was from the farmers’ market, apart from the flowers, which was sourced from a friend, and the green olives. Even the plate was local.
“We’re really more artisan-to-table than farm-to-table,” John says, taking the extra step to build local meals from the plate up thanks to local potter Matt Hallyburton‘s exquisitely designed dishes. They are made to highlight the ingredients presented, which happens to focus on veggies. “It’s what I feel most strongly about,” John says. “Meat is something that supports the vegetables rather than having the vegetables support the meat – that’s the mentality.”
Take the roasted asparagus appetizer. The version I tried had guanciale (John has since switched to strawberries in keeping with the season), and these tiny, crispy, bacon-y bites elevated the lamb-fat-marinated asparagus, pickled rhubarb and creamy duck egg sabayon.
And when it came to the farfalle pasta, I knew I was getting my daily dose of veggies. Made with carrot juice and pulp to add more texture to the pasta, John makes a broth with arugula, bok choy, spring greens and ramps. Topped with a duck egg that adds a richness to the broth when broken, this meal provides the comfort of a soup, but all the texture of a main dish – it will leave you full, trust me!
If you’re looking for something with more of a casual twist at this Italian-focused restaurant (Andy Magowan, who also owns Geer Street Garden, opened it in late 2014) try one of The Boot’s signature pizzas. This one features red wine figs, prosciutto and robiola. “You can come here for a special occasion or for everyday dining – we’re trying to bridge that gap,” John says. Hey, put together anything with carrots, and I’m in.
