Talk Turkey Over This German Pinot Noir

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wasem_sortiment-029_sp-tburgunder_trocken_2013_400x600_01_600x600No global warming? Tell that to the intrepid German winemakers! They haven’t had an unripe vintage since 1991, whereas in the past, cold, cloudy summers were the norm as the grapes struggled to reach ripeness. Dryer Rieslings are now the best ever, because the grapes achieve the requisite ripeness to produce a wine with enough body. And, as to Pinot Noir, (Spätburgunder in German) we are now witnessing really red wines, not the light, almost rosé colors that were once the frustrating norm.

Today’s wine would be lovely for Thanksgiving, (I know it’s a bit late) or for other holiday meals where turkey, duck, French onion soup or mushroom-based dishes take center stage. It’s a Pinot Noir whose front label tells us only the bare essentials: 2013 Wasem Spätburgunder Trocken. But the back label tells the real story, with all the  specifics the Germans are known for spelled out: Ingelheimer Sonnenhang Spätburgunder Trocken, Rheinhessen. So we now know the wine’s from the village of Ingelheim, (in the Rheinhessen region across from the Rheingau) and from the single vineyard named Sonnenhang. (By the way, Ingelheim is historically famous for its Spätburgunder.) There’s yet more information here, but let’s leave it at that.

2013 Wasem Spätburgunder Trocken $22 srp

Transparent ruby color with lightening rim. A bright, spicy crushed cherry and plum bouquet, bursting with generosity and freshness. Pungent mushroom, tobacco and loamy earth elements provide complexity. Flavors are medium-bodied with juicy primary fruits, nice balance and very crisp acidity that enhances freshness. I like it slightly chilled. Drink now-2018.

88/100 points

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Arturo Ciompi

Trained as a classical clarinetist and conductor, Arturo plied his trade for many years in New York, performing with the Orpheus Chamber Orchestra, New York City Opera, the American Symphony and countless chamber music groups. While living in Durham, Arturo became the wine manager at two iconic gourmet stores: Fowler’s in Durham and Southern Season in Chapel Hill. He had a wine spot on NPR in the ’90s and has been a continuously published wine journalist since 1997. He has won national awards for his work and is currently writing for Durham Magazine and its weekly blog, “Wine Wednesdays”. In addition, he loves teaching the clarinet. Read more on his website.
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