Spartacus’ Lamb Shank: A Cut Above the Rest

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Spartacus
Photo by Sarah Arneson

You know you’ve got a winning dish when you’ve been serving it for 22 years. The slow-roasted lamb shank is one of the best sellers at Greek restaurant Spartacus, and it’s not even on the menu.

“We featured it when we opened,” says John Drury, one of the partners in the restaurant, “and then the reaction was so overwhelming that we just kept doing it.” The restaurant makes a fresh batch of 15 to 20 pieces every morning, but once it’s gone, it’s gone, and you’ll have to wait till the next day to order it again, hence why the owners leave it off the standard menu. “But people know about it – trust me,” John says.

The recipe dates back nearly 50 years, having been a staple in the Kalfas family – the co-owners – for special occassions, especially. Each shank is hand rolled with a variety of seasonings and spices, like oregano, basil, rosemary and thyme; whole garlic cloves are pressed inside of the meat. It’s cooked for about 7 or 8 hours, and then is served with garlic mashed potatoes and whatever Mediterranean vegetables the restaurant is featuring that day, like zucchini and sauteed spinach. Pair it with a Rodney Strong cabernet. “It’s a dish that you look forward to,” John says.

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Amanda MacLaren

Amanda MacLaren is the executive editor of Durham Magazine. Born in Mesa, Arizona, she grew up in Charlotte and attended UNC-Chapel Hill, majoring in journalism. She’s lived in Durham for eight years. When she’s not at work, you can usually find her with a beer in hand at Fullsteam, Dain’s Place or Bull City Burger or getting takeout from Guasaca.
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