Create the perfect summer skin care regimen with top Durham dermatologists’ recommendations on the best practices, common concerns and essential products for all skin types
Compiled by Celia Funderburk
Building a personalized skin care routine can be a daunting task. So, we went to our readers’ favorite dermatologists for their expert tips on the best practices for different skin types and common concerns.
Tailoring Skin Care Routines
Dermatologist and dermatologic surgeon Dr. Garett S. Bressler emphasizes that “skin care routines should be built based on the amount of skin oil, color, texture and the degree of sensitivity to product ingredients.” Dr. Brooke Jackson, a fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology, board-certified dermatologist and owner and medical director of Skin Wellness Dermatology Associates, puts it plainly: “Not everything is for everybody, and just because it is on social media does not mean it is the best choice for you,” she says, adding that “[our] skin is our largest organ. It is also an immune organ, meaning [that] any challenge to our immune system is likely to manifest in our skin.” Dr. Janet Tcheung, F.A.A.D., of Triangle Dermatology Associates advises “consistency, patience and persistence” when building a routine. “Any routine deserves at least four to six weeks to see improvement,” Dr. Tcheung says. “A daily, basic skin care routine may include a gentle cleanser [and] applying a moisturizer and a sunscreen.”
Key Recommendations for Different Skin Types
For dry skin, Dr. Bressler recommends moisturizers with ceramides or glycolic acids to help repair the skin barrier and retain moisture. Dr. Tcheung suggests products containing humectants like ceramides, hyaluronic acid and glycerin. “Wash the skin twice daily, morning and night,” she says. “If the skin is very dry and sensitive, skip a cleanser in the morning and just rinse with cold or lukewarm water.” Dr. Jackson advises avoiding long, hot showers and opting for shorter, cooler ones.
Dr. Jackson warns those with oily skin against trying to strip the skin of oil, noting that oil (sebum) production fluctuates with the seasons. Dr. Bressler. cautions against products containing salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide, warning that these ingredients can be irritating “and benzoyl peroxide can bleach clothing.” Dr. Tcheung advises using gel or foam cleansers labeled “non-comedogenic,” and again, cleansing twice daily and after exercise. “Throughout the day, those with oily skin may consider using blotting papers to gently pat off excess oil,” she says.
Dr. Bressler recommends hypoallergenic products free of dyes, perfume and fragrance for those with combination skin. Dr. Tcheung echoes the importance gentle cleansers – “Neutrogena, Cerave, Cetaphil and La Roche-Posay are all good choices” – and a lighter moisturizer like Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel.
Preventing Common Concerns
Dr. Jeffrey Scales from North Carolina Center for Dermatology says the best way to prevent brown spots and wrinkles is to wear a moisturizer with sunscreen of SPF 15 or more, along with using a prescription-strength tretinoin nightly. Dr. Bressler also points out the effectiveness of hydroquinone for dark spots and tretinoin for fine wrinkles and scarring with the caveat that tretinoin can be irritating. Dr. Tcheung emphasizes the importance of broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, adding that “retinoids have been proven to be effective in multiple research studies for photodamage, wrinkles and acne.”
Sunscreen: A Daily Essential
All dermatologists agree on the paramount importance of daily sunscreen use. “Daily use of sunscreen is right up there with brushing your teeth!” Dr. Jackson says. “It is foundational to healthy skin, minimizing sun damage and discoloration, and protecting against skin cancer.” Dr. Scales concurs, noting that regular sunscreen use is the single best approach to anti-aging.
“There are two general categories of sunscreens: chemical-based, which protects by inducing a chemical reaction in the skin, and mineral-based, which are physical blockers of sunlight,” Dr. Bressler explains. Dr. Tcheung stresses that wearing sunscreen should be a daily goal. She recommends finding a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, applying it 30 minutes before going outside and reapplying every two to three hours.
Lesser-Known Summer Skin Dangers
Dr. Jackson advises vigilance against poison ivy and sunburn, recommending long sleeves and pants when gardening and showering as soon as possible afterward. Dr. Tcheung highlights the rise in bug bites during warmer months and advises to consider using DEET-based products or protective clothing. “When these bites do happen, over-the-counter hydrocortisone cream applied twice daily may help reduce the inflammation and itching,” she says. “Cold compresses (e.g., ice packs, frozen bag of peas) are also very helpful at reducing itch.”
Dr. Scales warns about the development of contact dermatitis as the result of juice from citrus fruits on the skin becoming exposed to direct sunlight and advises thorough washing after handling citrus fruits. He also highlights the increased sun sensitivity in people with autoimmune diseases such as dermatomyositis and lupus, recommending the highest possible sun protection factor.
When to See a Dermatologist
“All persons should have periodic skin examinations,” Dr. Bressler says. Or “anyone who has questions or concerns about their hair, skin
or nails,” Dr. Jackson adds. “Board certified dermatologists are medical doctors who have completed medical school, an internship and three or more years of specialized training in dermatology. We treat well over 200 skin conditions.”
All four dermatologists agree that regular visits are crucial for those with a strong family history of melanoma, personal history of skin cancer of any type, and anyone with numerous or abnormal moles, a fair complexion, red hair and a tendency to burn quickly. “Signs of skin cancer may include any lesion that is new and does not resolve in four weeks, [and is] growing, changing, bleeding, painful and/or nonhealing,” Dr. Tcheung says. “Also, those with rashes and skin conditions (like acne, hair loss, vitiligo) that are impacting their quality of life due to itching, burning, tenderness, difficulty sleeping, difficulty focusing, etc., should consider seeing a dermatologist.”
