‘Powerful and Inviting’ Pacific Northwest Reserve

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31JcVfz3qIL._SL500_AA300_I have been extolling the wines from Washington state’s “Horse Heaven Hills” viticultural area for years. In 2003 I wrote, “Someday people will talk about Horse Heaven Hills in the same manor as they discuss the Napa and Sonoma Valleys.” Those days are here, and the changes occurring in Washington viticulture are remarkable for their speed and their insight. Mercer Estates has numerous vineyard sites along the sweep of the Columbia River. I’ve never tasted a boring wine from them, but their “Mercer Reserves” are especially “top of the heap.” Today’s example, a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre will convince any wine lover of the quality possibilities at this fifth-generation agricultural enterprise.

2012 Mercer Estates Ode To Brothers Reserve $42 srp

Blackest cherry color with lightening rim. Intensely spicy nose of red berry fruits, loam and rich earth with lingering accents of sage, juniper and espresso coffee grounds. Powerful and inviting. Flavors are rich, almost saturated, with a sappy, warm texture. Elements of dried plum and fig caress the lively flavors and its balanced finish. Impressive now and will continue to improve. (41% Syrah, 31% Grenache, 28% Mourvedre) Drink now–2020.

92/100 points

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Arturo Ciompi

Trained as a classical clarinetist and conductor, Arturo plied his trade for many years in New York, performing with the Orpheus Chamber Orchestra, New York City Opera, the American Symphony and countless chamber music groups. While living in Durham, Arturo became the wine manager at two iconic gourmet stores: Fowler’s in Durham and Southern Season in Chapel Hill. He had a wine spot on NPR in the ’90s and has been a continuously published wine journalist since 1997. He has won national awards for his work and is currently writing for Durham Magazine and its weekly blog, “Wine Wednesdays”. In addition, he loves teaching the clarinet. Read more on his website.
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