The opening of Picnic, a self-described “modern roadside barbecue joint” off of Cole Mill Road in north Durham, has brought the trifecta of a Southern restaurant ideal – especially one that focuses on treasured memories of pig pickins’ – to the table: the farmer, the barbecue man and the chef. And after attending their first unofficial dinner service last night, it appears to be a winning combination.
“Anxiety, stress and hard work have given way to rolling smoke, beautifully plated dishes and joy as our barbecue dream has come to life,” Picnic partner and Green Button farmer Ryan Butler said in an email to attendees prior to last night’s dinner. The delectable smell of a whole, pasture-raised hog cooking on a smoker custom-designed with fuel efficiency in mind by Picnic partner and “Barbecue Man” Wyatt Dickson – who has spent years catering his Pig Whistle barbecue to friends, family and chefs – wafted through the air as we pulled up to the restaurant. It fits the aforementioned portrait perfectly: modern touches like an open kitchen, light steel chairs and a strategically placed long bar in the rear of the restaurant combine with the authentic feel of a no-frills barbecue joint. Chalkboards highlight drink and dessert specials (we’ll be back for the Moscow Mule layer cake!), as well as a waiting list by the front door for guests clamoring for a table in the small dining room, but who are happy to mingle at the bar.
The menu is riddled with Southern classics – pimento cheese, deviled eggs, fried green tomatoes, Brunswick stew for appetizers alongside entrees of smoked buttermilk fried chicken, blackened catfish and of course, Wyatt’s whole-hog barbecue, which is always pulled to-order – never chopped – and finished with his Pig Whistle sauce, a combination of vinegar and tomato. (“Piedmont-style,” according to Wyatt.) Chef Ben Adams has crafted these staples expected at a community barbecue, including sides of potato salad, mac-and-cheese, bacon-braised collards, slaw and hushpuppies.
And it’s not just the food that’s overwhelmingly Southern. The friendly and attentive staff went above and beyond to make sure our needs were being met at every point of the meal, despite a crowded dining room. It’s a behavior that has unfortunately become almost as antiquated as truly flavorful, authentic barbecue, and it’s nice to find a place that delivers both in spades.
Picnic, located at 1647 Cole Mill Rd., is now serving Monday through Saturday, 11am to 11pm, with the promise of Sunday brunch soon to come.
