If you’re one of those people who wonder why Pinot Noir and Cinsault were ever combined to create a viticultural cross grape called Pinotage, join the club. No, seriously, this was once the dominant red wine in South Africa, and some past examples were a rubbery, stewed mess that sometimes smelled like drying paint! But no more – Pinotage has real merits. When well made it has the suave lightness of Pinot Noir with the earthier M.O. of Cinsault. Today’s example is reminiscent of the finest reds of southwestern France.
I met the genial and delightful Sidney Back years ago touting his Fairview wines while touring the U.S. Son Charles now carries on the tradition and, frankly, the Pinotage at Fairview seems its best ever.
2014 Pinotage Fairview Wine Estate, South Africa $17 srp
An iron-rich color. A deep, loamy nose of black fruits. Rather “elemental” in its dark, woodsy elements. Flavors are smooth, medium-bodied yet robust. The Cinsault dominates the nose, but the “pretty” mouth texture is a salute to its Pinot past! Remarkably accessible, with soft tannins and good acids that refresh but don’t intrude. Drink now-2017. A great match for holiday red meats, (South Africans recommend “Bobotie”), a mushroom-based risotto or a hearty bowl of chili.
89/100 points
