Pair This Bargain Portuguese Red With Anything Grilled

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Pera+Doce+Red+Wine+2011+PremiumI’ll admit it, the wines of Portugal have always fascinated me. Port is a separate category, but long ago, bottlings of red wines with names like Dao, Bairrada and Alentejo thrilled me at reasonable prices. Their personalities, often with long barrel aging, and the use of indigenous grapes always made me smile. Perhaps there is a Portuguese sailor somewhere in my heritage! Regardless, today’s wine brings back those qualities – and at a very old-fashioned price! Pêra Doce is an Alentejano blend from southeastern Portugal that delivers sensational texture and complexity.

2014 Pêra Doce, Premium, Herdade Da Candeeira $12 srp*

Deep red color with rust-like elements. Imposing, highly perfumed nose of dried berries, crushed rock (really!), iodine, pepper and sweet soil. Totally intriguing. Flavors are smooth and richly textured, almost velvety, with generous fruit and dark chocolate overtones. Tonight, I would chill this red slightly and serve with all manner of grilled fare. (It could also age and improve in one’s cellar.) Tastes like wines at three times the cost. (A blend of Syrah, Trincadeira, Aragonez and Alicante Bouschet) Drink now-2022.

90/100 points

*Local availability may be spotty

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Arturo Ciompi

Trained as a classical clarinetist and conductor, Arturo plied his trade for many years in New York, performing with the Orpheus Chamber Orchestra, New York City Opera, the American Symphony and countless chamber music groups. While living in Durham, Arturo became the wine manager at two iconic gourmet stores: Fowler’s in Durham and Southern Season in Chapel Hill. He had a wine spot on NPR in the ’90s and has been a continuously published wine journalist since 1997. He has won national awards for his work and is currently writing for Durham Magazine and its weekly blog, “Wine Wednesdays”. In addition, he loves teaching the clarinet. Read more on his website.
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