Gocciolina
The Plate
Pasta dishes are, naturally, a source of pride for this casual Italian restaurant. One that has become popular is the spaghetti carbonara. The dish starts with house-made bacon sautéed in olive oil, and then adds freshly cooked spaghetti followed by a mixture of egg and pecorino cheeses. The most prominent is the Dante sheep cheese out of Wisconsin. This is gently mixed with the hot pasta and a little cooking liquid to create a creamy, rich noodle experience with the cheese as the highlight, accentuated by meaty bacon flavor and fresh cracked black pepper. $9
The Place
Gocciolina opened June 13 in a strip mall on Guess Road just north of Carver Street. “At first, I had the same reaction as most people,” Chef Aaron Benjamin says of the shopping plaza the restaurant shares with Sir Speedy, Global Hearing Aids and an ABC store. “But the space quickly grew on me.” The restaurant utilizes primarily North Carolina seafood and meats, and sources its beef and pork from local farms and lamb from Colorado. A large portion of the menu focuses on vegetables, prepared fresh and in season.
The People
Aaron, who has worked at Pop’s and Rue Cler, spent a year in Italy in 2007 and used most of his time eating, drinking and experiencing the best of what the country had to offer. “Gocciolina is my attempt to give people a taste of what I enjoyed so much throughout Europe and specifically in Italy,” he says. “For me, Italian food means ingredients that you can talk about [and that] have some sort of story.”
Here’s a Tip
The menu is designed to be shared and encourages folks to try new dishes. So bring the family and sample a bit of everything.
Oval Park Grille
The Plate
One of Chef Todd Whitney’s favorite menu items is the grilled kale salad, which features greens from Mark Hockney of Tiny Farm, caramelized shallot,lime, chili, pecorino, peanuts and fried Rappahannock River oysters. A bonus for gluten-sensitive diners: The oysters are dusted in chickpea flour, which makes the dish gluten free. $14
The Place
The eatery is named for the park in the Watts-Hillandale neighborhood adjacent to it and opened in early June in the space formerly occupied by The Broad Street Café. What was once the stage in the old café has been replaced by a cozy patio with family-style seating. With a neighbor- hood name comes a neighborhood feel. “You can certainly go mow the yard and then come in and have a snack and a beer and not have to change your clothes,” Todd says. “We want it to be an everyday kind of restaurant where you can pop by and get a burger and some salad, or you can come and get a nice dinner with your significant other.”
The People
Owners Greg Demarchie and Todd – former bar manager and chef de cuisine, respectively, at Vin Rouge – joined forces to create “something we felt there was a void for,” Todd explains. “There are not a lot of casual places that you can go and get really great food that’s a combination of bar food, like burgers and wings, and healthier options.”
Here’s a Tip
Oval Park Grille recently expanded its hours to open on Saturdays and Sundays at 11 for lunch. Once football season starts up, you can catch games on the big screens at the bar. And definitely try the wings.
Mattie B’s Public House
The Plate
The Mattie Melt is a play off of the traditional patty melt, created by Chef John Eisensmith using Co-Owner Matthew Beason’s favorite toppings. A burger patty is cooked to the customer’s desired temperature and topped with caramelized onions, pimento cheese and bacon before being transferred to a piece of buttered white bread, smeared with a healthy dose of chipotle ranch and covered with the second bread slice. $10.95
The Place
Mattie B’s is a casual spot with elevated American classics like pizza and burgers and an extensive beer and cider collection. Guests can choose to either be seated and have a leisurely dinner with a waiter serving them, take an order to go, or order at the counter and then seat themselves to enjoy the meal at their own pace. All the artwork on the walls is by local artist Revere La Noue.
The People
Mattie grew up in Durham and became part-time manager of Pop’s in 2000, in charge of developing the wine menu. He soon was named full-time manager. In 2003, he started to work on plans for his own concept, Six Plates Wine Bar, and opened Mattie B’s a decade later. John began working in restaurants at the age of 15 as a busboy and dishwasher, and eventually a line cook. He attended the Culinary Institute of America and, after graduation, worked in restaurants all along the East Coast before landing the executive chef position at Six Plates in 2010. He became part owner with Mattie in 2014.
Here’s a Tip
Pick from Mattie B’s 12 housemade sauces to accompany your dish. Some of the most popular? Guava cayenne, ketchup and Jamaican volcano.
58 Fifty
The Plate
A classic with a twist, the shrimp and grits feature jumbo shrimp sautéed in rendered bacon with garlic, onions and diced tomato and then finished with white wine and heavy cream. Instead of a typical soft grits preparation, 58 Fifty chefs make cheesy grit cakes that are fried crispy and golden. $16
The Place
Formerly Sunset Grille, the restaurant has been completely revamped. Gone are the pool tables and arcade games – the interior is entirely redone, as is the menu, which now features modern American cuisine and includes meat products from Mills Family Farm in Mooresville. “It just makes sense to support the people who are working as hard as you are,” Co-Owner Katherine Richardson says. “Supporting your community in every way possible makes you feel good about what you’re doing.”
The People
Katherine and husband Dan Richardson moved to Durham from Arizona in 2006 to open The Melting Pot. Looking to diversify, they bought Sunset Grille in 2009 when it catered more to the late-night crowd. A year ago, they decided to change the concept of the restaurant and “create something that felt it was truly a reflection of us,” Katherine says.
Here’s a Tip
A stage took the place of those pool tables. Look for live jazz music on Friday nights from 7:30 to 11:30 and during brunch on Sundays from 10 to 2.
Pompieri
The Plate
The pizza joint’s signature pie – the Pompieri – was created when Owner Seth Gross was experimenting with peppadew peppers, a cross between a tomato and a pepper. He found red and gold varieties, in keeping with the restaurant’s fire theme, and paired them with a red sauce and house mozzarella atop traditional Neopolitan pizza dough, finished with a touch of chili oil for extra heat. “That’s really what it’s about,” Seth says. “You’re rocking this delicious, blistered crust that has a little flavoring on the top.” $12
The Place
Originally built in the 1890s and rebuilt in the 1920s, historic Fire Station No. 1 became home to Pompieri – which is Italian for firemen – in January. “On the food side, you have full view of the pizzas being made – the flames in the ovens,” Seth says. “Then when you go to the bar side, we’ve got the red color on the bar top, lots of gold lettering, historic photos, a bit of fire paraphernalia, fire extinguishers. All the beer taps are designed like a sprinkler system. If there’s a fire, we’ll put it out with beer.” The restaurant grows its own basil, chili peppers and more aquaponically – hence the fish tanks with red, gold and black-speckled goldfish. Oh, and you cut your pizza with kitchen shears. “The scissors are an idea from another pizza place,” Seth says. “I was trying to find a way to not cut the pizza and make it look all butchered before you get to see it in its true, whole form. That way, every pizza is individual; you can cut four giant slices, you can cut 12 tiny slices. We have people who cut lightning bolts.”
The People
Seth is also chef/owner of Bull City Burger and Brewery, located just behind Pompieri on Parrish Street. “I have a core group who have been with me since we opened Bull City Burger, and I hope that they’ll stay with me all the way through to the end, whenever that comes,” Seth says. “Martha King, Cece Lopez, Luke Studer, Shadoe Stewart. For Pompieri specifically, I would add John Bayer. They make up a great team of creative, truly dedicated people.”
Here’s a Tip
Come for Sunday family meals. From 4:30 to 6:30, Pompieri serves up playful pizzas that aren’t on the menu – they’ve done a margarita instead of a margherita with lime and salt – for one price, and it’s all you can eat. There’s one catch: When you come in, you have to put your cell phone, and the kids have to put their electronic games, into baskets at the door. “You get salad. You get side dishes, pizza and gelato,” Seth says. “I think it’s a great value, and it’s about trying to get people back together talking at the dinner table.”
Primal
The Plate
Local grass-fed beef short rib is seared and marinated overnight in hard cider, apple juice, onions and garlic. The next day, more stock is added, and then it’s braised in the oven for hours (the whole process takes 30) until it falls apart. The stock is reduced down to make a sauce, and the rib is served with an apple chip gremolata; the dried out apples take the place of breadcrumbs in a classic gremolata, adding a bit of crunch to the meal. $17
The Place
This is blu seafood and bar Chef and Owner Tim Lyons’ second venture, and the Triangle’s first gluten-free restaurant. “We had an 8-year-old boy come in who has never been able to eat out at a restaurant before because of his allergies,” Tim says. “Literally once a night we hear this story. We’re really excited that we’re able to appeal to these people, but also we’re excited to appeal to foodies and to everyone who just wants a good meal. Hopefully, you come in here and don’t think of it as a gluten-free restaurant or an alternative diet place. You just think of it as good food.”
The People
Tim brought in Chef Dan Wright, whom he cooked with in Key West in the mid-2000s, to run the kitchen and used a number of local folks to help build Primal. blu general manager Adam Greene is in charge of the beverages, mixologist Dean James created the cocktail program, Primal general manager Adrian Lindsay is “the quintessential maître d’” and Tim’s wife, Rachel, works on the marketing for both Primal and blu. Ellen Cassilly Architect assisted with design, and Red Rhino Company acted as contractor. Carpenter and artist Mark Cool built the wood tabletops and wood wall by the bar; Tim Carey constructed the bar and banquettes; and those flame-inspired door handles and copper tables were done by metalworker Andrew Preiss.
Here’s a Tip
Sit in the bar area from 5 to 7 and ask for the happy hour menu, which features appetizers and salads ranging from $4 to $7.
Parts and Labor
The Plate
The Moto-Banh is Chef Chris Holloway’s take on a classic banh mi, the French Vietnamese, mayo-meets-fish-sauce sandwich. It’s a roasted pork loin, locally made pâté (by Michael Collins of This Little Piggie Charcuterie), garlic aioli, house-pickled cucumbers, daikon radish and carrots, jalapeños (heat varies) and cilantro, all drizzled with fish sauce and served ona lightly toasted baguette. $7
The Place
Chris had been friends and neighbors with the owners for years. They had talked about a kitchen since Motorco’s beginning, but everything finally came together in November. “Partner/Owner Mike Webster describes it as an ‘extremely eclectic event space.’” Chris says. “When all cylinders are running, it can be almost carnival-like on that corner. Kishi Bashi sold-out show in the Showroom, the patio full of people enjoying the outdoors, cold beer, and Parts and Labor eats. Sometimes we’re having an oyster roast, crawfish boil or I’m making paella over an open flame.” The restaurant focuses on smaller portions so you can snack or put together options for a meal. Chris calls Parts and Labor “a true omnivore’s dilemma,” emphasizing that the vegan and vegetarian options are just as tasty as the cheeseburger and bacon jam slider.
The People
Chris was born in Watts Hospital and played bass in Queen Sarah Saturday. He toured the country with the band and cooked in kitchens in Durham whenever they weren’t traveling. He did the same thing with the band Collapsis before ending up in D.C., where he worked in a Jewish deli, with Michel Richard at Citronelle and at his own business. He returned to Durham seven years ago and was chef at Southern Season in Chapel Hill before heading to Duke and ultimately opening three restaurants. He also co-owns Brookland Eats in Roxboro. Kitchen Manager Roger Loos, who came from The Eddy Pub in Saxapahaw, is “responsible for daily specials using local seafood and whatnot,” Chris says. “Always look to see what he has going.”
Here’s a Tip
Pair the Moto-Banh with the house-cut fries, and you have yourself a meal for less than $10. Beer optional … but come on. Have a beer!
Gregoria’s Cuban Steakhouse
The Plate
“I like to call it barbecue from 90 miles south,” says Gregoria’s Chef Michael Pirnik of the lechón asado entrée. Roasted pork is marinated in a mojo criollo sauce, and then it’s cooked slowly, shredded and served with white Cuban rice, black beans, seasonal grilled vegetables and crispy plantain chips. “This is Cuban country food,” Michael says. “This is the stuff that I grew up eating in my grandmother’s kitchen.” $15
The Place
Gregoria’s Cuban Steakhouse was Gregoria’s Kitchen on Chapel Hill Road in its previous life, but a fire last year closed the restaurant. In January, Owner Fares Hanna opened the new Gregoria’s at the corner of Trent Drive and Hillsborough Road in a much larger space complete with a sizable bar, private dining room and patio that can seat up to 60 guests.
The People
Fares has lived in Durham for more than 20 years and opened Gregoria’s Kitchen in 2011. The homestyle Cuban fare on the original menu has been amplified and expanded by Michael, who moved from New York City a year ago, to include a variety of steaks and seafood. General Manager Aaron Zarczynski has cooked in Europe and managed restaurants in Arizona, Georgia, South Carolina and Texas. He’s revitalized the bar program, bringing in nearly 20 new liquors and rotating local drafts from Fullsteam and Mystery Brewing, among others.
Here’s a Tip
Weekly drink specials include $5 martinis on Wednesday and $5 mojitos on Thursday. And you can get $2 tacos every evening from 5 to 7 at the bar and patio.
Local 22
The Plate
The hush puppies are one of the go-to favorites of customers. “They just are one of the things we’re really good at,” says General Manager Pete Wagner. Representative of the local, Southern comfort food at Local 22, the ingredients change based on what Chef Nicholas Aldrich finds at the farmers’ market. One week it might be bacon and pepper hush puppies and the next, lamb and feta with mint. They’re served piping hot with melted cheddar and Monterey Jack cheese. $8
The Place
The newest Giorgios Bakatsias restaurant creates upscale, decadent meals in a relatively laid-back, neighborly atmosphere. The restaurant was intended to have a rustic farmhouse feel to it. “We try and make it as comfortable as possible,” Pete says. Local 22 replaced Vita, which Giorgios operated in the same location in Erwin Square Plaza.
The People
Giorgios is pretty well known in the Triangle – he owns and/or operates 10 restaurants here, including Local 22 neighbors Parizade and Vin Rouge as well as The Nasher Café in the Nasher Museum of Art at Duke University – and received a James Beard nomination this year for Outstanding Restaurateur. When Local22 opened in October, Pete – who’s also worked at Milltown, Bowbarr and Acme in Carrboro – was brought over from Kipos to manage the restaurant. Nicholas has worked with Giorgios Group for close to a year now and recently became executive chef at Local 22.
Here’s a Tip
The house cocktails are made with Durham-based Brood Soda. Try one with the Local 22-specific El-22 soda, the restaurant’s version of a root beer that incorporates wintergreen, vanilla and honey flavors.
Harvest 18
The Plate
The heirloom tomato sampler is a variety of tomatoes finished with Prodigal Farm’s goat cheese and some fresh herb oil, usually basil. “The cool thing about September is we get a lot of the ones out of the mountains,” says Chef-Proprietor Jason Smith. “The mountain varietals often are a whole lot different than the ones we get in the Piedmont – there’s something about them that I just think makes them a little more unique. It’s a dish that I love and symbolizes summer in the South.” $9
The Place
Harvest 18 brings independent charm to an area inundated with national chains. The red grid that floats above the bar area adds a contemporary element to the restaurant, which also boasts a comfortable, homey feel thanks to the memorabilia brought in from a Virginian cattle farm owned by the father of Jason’s wife, Lauren. It was Lauren who came up with the idea of mix-and-match salt and pepper shakers that feature cows, pigs and other farm figures. More than 80% of the food is purchased from North Carolina producers and farmers. “That’s the biggest key,” Jason says.
The People
A native to Raleigh, Jason also owns 18 Seaboard and Cantina 18 in our capital city. He started his cooking career at 42nd Street Oyster Bar at the age of 19, and three years later worked with Ben and Karen Barker at Magnolia Grill. “That was invaluable,” Jason says. “To this day I use some contacts that I met through that restaurant 15 years ago. Some of the tomatoes we’re serving right now are coming from farmers – Alex and Betsy Hitt [of Peregrine Farm] – I met when I worked with Ben.” He’s also worked in New York City at Union Square Café and Gramercy Tavern, as well as Charleston’s Peninsula Grill. Jason has even cooked in Antarctica – he lived there for seven months – for the National Science Foundation.
Here’s a Tip
Try the peach sangria. North Carolina-grown peaches are cooked down with simple syrup and vanilla bean and made into a puree that’s finished off with Troy & Sons moonshine, a little brandy and white wine for a lip-smacking good cocktail.
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Ed. Note: This article first appeared in our September 2014 issue.
