On the Crest

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Columbia+Crest+Grand+Estates+Cabernet copyI would imagine that three entities might still have a 16-year-old, unopened bottle of Columbia Crest Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon:

No. 1: The Winery
No. 2: Winemaker, Doug Gore, and
No. 3: Me

I’m not even sure Doug would hold onto it this long, but I’m here to tell him, and you, that this is one delicious bottle of wine!

My bottle got lost in an untidy cellar and, when discovered, I had little hope for its healthy survival. Imagine then my pleasant surprise when it turned out not only to have “survived,” but aged brilliantly over the course of a generation. This $8 bottle, (current release price is $12 but can be found for under $10) adds fuel to the “smoothness and finesse” description on the bottle’s back label. It’s true that Columbia Crest’s wines are supple and pleasing even upon release, but I found a wealth of secondary and tertiary elements in this bottle that took to cellaring much like a fine Bordeaux offering. I know of no other mass produced wine, (current production is over 200,000 cases) that can boast of these qualities.

1999 Columbia Crest, Grand Estates, Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley $8*

A gorgeous deep crimson core color, with light red to orange highlights at rim. The nose is dense, penetrating and still powerfully invested with gobs of fruit. Berry compote, plum pudding and chocolate sensations, plus a fresh herb component inhabit and scurry about in the bouquet. Cocoa and plum elements continue onto the flavors which are generous and mouth-filling. Excellent balance and acidity combine with a lingering, sensual mouth texture. Reminiscent of a fine Graves from the Bordeaux region of France. Terrific wine experience—drink now!

92/100 points

* Price when purchased in 2002.

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Arturo Ciompi

Trained as a classical clarinetist and conductor, Arturo plied his trade for many years in New York, performing with the Orpheus Chamber Orchestra, New York City Opera, the American Symphony and countless chamber music groups. While living in Durham, Arturo became the wine manager at two iconic gourmet stores: Fowler’s in Durham and Southern Season in Chapel Hill. He had a wine spot on NPR in the ’90s and has been a continuously published wine journalist since 1997. He has won national awards for his work and is currently writing for Durham Magazine and its weekly blog, “Wine Wednesdays”. In addition, he loves teaching the clarinet. Read more on his website.
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