The most recent iteration of Nanas restaurant embodies culinary excellence amid an elegant and glossy interior design
By Morgan Cartier Weston & Amanda MacLaren | Photography by John Michael Simpson
The long-anticipated revival of Nanas in December 2023 made quite the splash in Rockwood’s dining scene. The new Nanas, under the skilled guidance of chef and owner Matt Kelly, promises returning patrons a blend of fresh takes on elevated Southern comfort dishes – with a few surprises. “We are taking a similar approach to cuisine but paving our own way,” Matt says.
The menu includes a few nods to the spot’s decades long run under former owner Scott Howell, including the ever-popular shrimp risotto as well as fun additions like the oxtail mezzaluna, a hand-shaped pasta in sage brown butter.
“Scott has made many visits to the kitchen,” says Nate Garyantes, chef partner at Nanas. “[Our] food is so approachable … but so much time, effort, energy and technique go into each dish to make it delicious.”
Matt says the team is committed to carving out a distinct culinary identity while paying homage to the restaurant’s roots, inviting guests to discover the nuances of this new era and influence its continued evolution. “We love Rockwood and want to grow alongside the community,” he says. “How we best serve the neighborhood is ultimately determined by our locals over time.”
The team also appreciates the support from its predecessors as they carry on Nanas captivating blend of innovation and tradition. “It was really special to have Ben Barker [former owner of award-winning Magnolia Grill and Scott Howell’s mentor] come in to eat,” Nate says. “He loved the grits soufflé.”
Some of the most significant changes can be admired before you even take your seat. The dining room received a meticulous, thoughtful redesign that plays on the past and paves the way for its future. “In the project’s early stages, Matt expressed a desire for the restaurant to feel like a walk in the North Carolina woods,” says creative director Shaun Sundholm.
Shaun took that directive to heart; the updated space exists at the crossroads of rustic charm and modern elegance, where natural materials like leather, wood, brass and wool combine to evoke the feel of a lush wooded retreat. “We drew inspiration from nature, particularly evident in the deep emerald green tiles at the entrance and the curved wall topped with vertical black walnut slats leading to the bar,” Shaun says. Blue velvet benches were inspired by swimming holes found deep on a hike in the Blue Ridge Mountains, while other choices were made in homage to the former Nana’s vibe. “We aimed for callbacks to the previous incarnation,” Shaun says. The bright orange bench and deep purple stripes in the plaid carpet are reminiscent of the blaze orange and eggplant purple walls (and, perhaps, your own grandma’s house).
RIGHT The ceramic pots found throughout the restaurant were made by Garry Childs out of Rougemont, North Carolina. (Photo by Lissa Gotwals)
LEFT The buffalo milk ricotta gnudi was a standout dish, with its creamy texture and earthiness of the beets, which were perfectly balanced with notes of native citrus.
The restaurant’s design aspects are also reflected in the menu itself. During this meal, our server, Beza Seyoum, notes that the beet discs atop the creamy buffalo milk ricotta gnudi are meant to emulate the polished circles above the light fixtures. Local artisans infused the dining areas with an added sense of community and craftsmanship. Each detail reflects a dedication to the artistry and tradition synonymous with the Nanas experience, from the black walnut millwork by Jay Jergensen of Jergensen Construction and Bun Sui to the bespoke brass accents that ARP Design Studio’s Andrew Preiss added to the tobacco leaf tables and curved bar. The draperies were custom made by Walker’s Draperies & Interiors. “We want returning regulars to feel welcomed back to a more comfortable yet classy version of the old stalwart,” Shaun says, adding that he hopes new guests enjoy a sense of relaxed sophistication when they take a seat. “It’s all the little things,” Nate says, “that add up to an incredible dining experience.”
First timer? “You can’t go wrong with a dish that is specific to Nanas,” chef and owner Matt Kelly says; he recommends the scallop milanese, grits soufflé or yellowfin tuna carpaccio. Whatever your order, wine director Eric Harris can provide recommendations that will maximize your culinary experience. Be sure to save room for the hot chocolate soufflé – it’s topped with a decadent house-made bourbon caramel ice cream and hot fudge sauce.
Nanas is open Tuesday through Saturday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. at 2514 University Dr. Reservations are recommended.
