Dive right into this laid-back Old West Durham seafood restaurant serving fresh oysters, cocktails and NC coastal-inspired fare
By Renee Ambroso | Photography by John Michael Simpson
A 4-foot flounder mural eyes hungry guests as they step inside Jean’s “By the Sea,” the West Durham seafood restaurant that opened this past spring in the longtime home of Wimpy’s Grill. The beloved burger institution closed in mid-2019 after 32 years in business, followed by the short-lived Blake’s Grill, which opened in early 2020 before rebranding as The Durham Filling Station just a few months later.
The Filling Station closed a couple years ago, leaving the modest brick building at the corner of Hillsborough Road and Hicks Street vacant until it caught the attention of Kate Elia.
“I loved it [immediately],” Kate says. “[Wimpy’s] meant a lot to the community. A lot of people in Durham, myself included, are sad when old places go away and get bulldozed.”
She partnered with Alliance Architecture, Jergensen Construction, Sundholm Studio and designer Paul Tuorto to breathe new life into the space, meticulously reshaping its tiny footprint into a fresh concept that honors the property’s neighborhood roots while charting a new course. The result is a relaxed seafood eatery equally suited for family meals, casual lunches and romantic evenings over oysters and cocktails.
The renovation expanded the dining room from 660 to 920 square feet, creating space for six indoor booths and a handful of counter seats. The team also nearly doubled the property’s footprint by incorporating the neighboring vacant lot, which now serves as a spacious patio with room for more than 100 guests under a pergola and shady trees. Inside, vintage signs, fishing poles and coastal artwork evoke the charm of a favorite aunt’s beach house. Kate says she recognizes that locals have plenty of upscale restaurants to pick from for a dressed-up date night, so she chose to create a welcoming, laid-back atmosphere at Jean’s where families and friends can, as she puts it, “eat food and not have to get fancy.”
TOAST TO THE COAST
The thoughtfully curated beverage program reflects Kate’s 20 years of experience in the wine industry, including four years as general manager of Wine Authorities and, most recently, director of operations at Piedmont Wine Imports. The well-rounded wine list features intriguing sparkling, orange, Champagne, white and red selections chosen to complement seafood while appealing to savvy and adventurous drinkers.
There’s also beer on tap, micheladas and a lineup of creative, beachy cocktails like the Fish House Punch, which blends Jamaican rum, peach brandy and cognac into a rich, fruit-forward sipper. Keep an eye out for rotating seasonal drink specials, too.
REEL GOOD EATS
A handful of daily catch specials, handwritten on white butcher paper next to the service window, and permanent menu items highlight East Coast seafood sourced primarily from North Carolina purveyors such as Locals Seafood. Kitchen manager Scott Perry butchers whole fish in-house each day.
Calabash baskets remain a crowd pleaser, offering the familiar pairing of crispy fried, grilled or blackened seafood with golden hush puppies, french fries and slaw. Raw oysters, daily crudo, citrusy ceviche and chilled peel-and-eat shrimp provide refreshing, lighter counterparts to the familiar comfort of fried fish stalwarts often associated with a classic counter-service seafood shack.
SHORE THING
Jean’s opened its backyard bar, The Barj, in mid-July. Guests can enjoy buckets of beer, frozen slushies and specialty cocktails with equally fun names – like the Gin & Jorts and Sea Hag – served outdoors on Friday and Saturday evenings, adding another reason to linger long after dinner.
