Generous Reds for Winter Fare

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Wine geeks know there are two distinct wines that suffer name confusion. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is a generous grape, and wine of the same name, produced on Italy’s southeastern coast. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is a Tuscan sangiovese from the village of Montepulciano. Confusing? Yes! But we persevere. I loved today’s Montepulciano d’Abruzzo reds produced by Fattoria La Valentina. The 2015 La Valentina is a focused, smoky, direct red that will satisfy all medium-textured meals calling for a sumptuous red. (89/100 points, $14) But for $7 more, the 2015 “Spelt” Riserva gives you a deeper, more interesting red with refined character and staying power. If you can, try them both!
2015 Spelt Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva, La Valentina $21 suggested retail price
Deep garnet in color. Homogeneous, rounded nose of dried roses, mulberry, fig and plum. Mountain herbs, and a tobacco/volcanic ash element, are smile inducing. Flavors are medium to full bodied, smooth and “sappy,” providing a dark, ripe texture that is dry and not fruity. A serious red, well-extracted with sparkling acids on the finish, providing refreshment and potential longevity. Drink now-2023. Try with grilled meats, pasta Bolognese or a mushroom/eggplant lasagna.
91/100 points

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Arturo Ciompi

Trained as a classical clarinetist and conductor, Arturo plied his trade for many years in New York, performing with the Orpheus Chamber Orchestra, New York City Opera, the American Symphony and countless chamber music groups. While living in Durham, Arturo became the wine manager at two iconic gourmet stores: Fowler’s in Durham and Southern Season in Chapel Hill. He had a wine spot on NPR in the ’90s and has been a continuously published wine journalist since 1997. He has won national awards for his work and is currently writing for Durham Magazine and its weekly blog, “Wine Wednesdays”. In addition, he loves teaching the clarinet. Read more on his website.
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