Since early 1998 the James Joyce, Durham’s original Irish pub, has kept its authentic atmosphere, serving up Guinnesses and burgers and similar pub fare in a setting that’s dim, cozy, with dark hardwoods – a locale the bar’s namesake would probably have frequented.
The décor of aged photos and books remains much the same as it has for more than 15 years, but you’ll now notice new additions to the walls: a couple chalkboards, one that highlights the new housemade craft cocktails and another, which features the daily specials whipped up by new Executive Chef RJ St. John using produce from the Joyce’s owner Fergus Bradley’s Ellerbe Creek Farm.
“I get inspired by these ingredients every morning and it lasts for days,” RJ says. “It doesn’t get fresher than this. It’s our farm; the relationship between our ownership, the farm and me is so tight-knit.”
With a plethora of vegetables now at his disposal, RJ – who is half Irish, half Korean – is incorporating more and more local ingredients into each of his dishes. Brussels sprouts are marinated, roasted in garlic and flash fried for crispiness before honey and sesame oil is drizzled over them. A spring salad – featuring their own Bibb lettuce, radishes and beets slow-roasted with brown sugar and blackening spice – is crafted with goat cheese and strawberries and served with a citrus vinaigrette and beet juice reduction with basil oil.
“You’re going to get high-caliber food at an affordable price point in a more relaxed, casual atmosphere,” Fergus says. “And, you’ll still have your burger, your fish and chips … it will just be interpreted in a more unique way for that particular day.”
Take the Boxtie Reuben, symbolic of Irish comfort food. Homemade corned beef and sauerkraut, plus imported cheddar that RJ expertly melts utilizing his favorite kitchen tool – a blowtorch – are sandwiched between two Irish potato pancakes and served with hand-cut garlic fries.
RJ credits his kitchen team, including sous chef –, for mirroring the care and consideration he’s putting into developing every dish that comes out to the tables or bar.
“There’s consistency in the food here,” Fergus says, “it’s the same quality of attention.”
“You can taste the difference,” RJ adds. “If [chefs] care, you can absolutely taste it.”
