My wife and I don’t go to Four Square nearly enough. It has nothing to do with the pricing. At $9 to $14 for appetizers and $23 to $34 for entrees, Four Square may not be your every-night destination, but neither is it in the stratospheric echelon many people improperly think. And do you ever get what you pay for! Chef Shane Ingram, general manager Elizabeth Woodhouse and wine guru Brandon Carr keep this Durham bistro at the top of one’s to do list.
The atmosphere is quiet and intimate. The re-purposed 1908 Victorian house is a perfect setting for a conversational night out. Service is always first-rate and non-intrusive. Recent standout dishes were the creamy tomato pork neck soup ($9), which is feather-light yet highly flavored — the pork base being remarkably delicate yet sustaining. The tomato acts with welcome acidity to keep it all fresh. The wild boar medallions with turmeric rice and cippollini was exquisitely flavorful, with the meat’s light sweetness playing off the earthiness of this tender cut. Menus change, but every dish I’ve ever sampled here has been lovingly prepared and memorable. The chef often comes to your table to make sure all is well.
The wine list is among Durham’s most carefully chosen and the selections will surprise the most hard-to-please oenophile. I particularly like the wide assortment of “by the glass” selections, the extensive ½ bottle choices and the thoughtful list of after-dinner libations. And Brandon is one of the very few wine masters to regularly feature some of North Carolina’s best releases.
Clearly not the place for wildly festive nights, this is the perfect setting when you require great food, a bit of suave intimacy and a memorable meal on all counts. If restaurants were reviewed like wines, I’d give Four Square 95 points — very special, and worth seeking out.
