If you’re like me, summer doesn’t mean giving up big reds on the right occasion. The other night we had prune-encrusted, grilled pork loin, and today’s wine was a stunning accompaniment. From Umbria, in central Italy, Montefalco Sagrantino is a bold red from a grape variety that combines power with a rich, unashamedly dense texture. Tenute Lunelli has remodeled a 21st-century estate out of the original Tenuta Castelbuono. Called Carapace, Italian for “tortoise,” (their facility has a huge copper dome reminiscent of tortoise shell) it represents a dedicated approach to taming this ancient grape of singular substance. The wine has limited availability and, frankly, an older vintage such as today’s example is even better for current consumption. Those who relish Barossa Shiraz or California Petite Syrah will find this wine right up their alley.
2008 Montefalco Sagrantino Carapace, Tenute Lunelli $37 srp
Deep ruby color with lightening rim. Roasted fig and plum elements on the nose with briary, penetrating saddle leather overtones. Heady stuff! Powerful dark cherry flavor. Incredibly rich but not heavy-handed, it has a smooth, generous finish with an acidic snap to refresh. Somewhat monolithic but impressive. Ready to drink at eight years of age, but can be cellared even further. Drink now-2022.
91/100 points
