A ‘Noble’ Wine from Tuscany

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avignonesi-vino-nobile_nvI have a prejudice towards today’s kind of wine. Because I am such a fan, I am also a harsh critic if one of these wines doesn’t live up to its name. It’s Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Today’s example is made with 100 percent of a particular Sangiovese grape clone, (Prugnolo Gentile) at the estate named Avignonesi. The village of Montepulciano, (no relation to a grape of that same name) is located in southeastern Tuscany, below Siena. It is less celebrated than its western neighbor, Brunello, but it can be just as exciting in its own manner. Especially fragrant, alluring and light on its feet, owner Virginie Saverys’ bottling is textbook – aged 18 months in French and Slavonian oak and released after six months of further bottle “rest.”

2013 Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano, Avignonesi $29 srp

A ruby/garnet color with an already lightening rim. Deeply perfumed nose of violets, roses and saturated, yet somehow effortless, cherry compote. Woodsy elements and springtime herbs emerge and grow in the glass. Flavors are medium-bodied, fresh and vibrant with continued cherry notes and a sense of sweetness despite no residual sugar being present. The finish is gentle yet persistent with excellent life-giving acidity. Overall this wine never shouts, it is masterfully beautiful and understated. I uncorked it at 10 a.m. and drank it nine hours later. (Good idea!) It will definitely coalesce with further bottle age, but is already delicious. I suggest keeping the foods simple, and allowing the wine to be the spice of the evening. Drink now-2023.

91/100 points

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Arturo Ciompi

Trained as a classical clarinetist and conductor, Arturo plied his trade for many years in New York, performing with the Orpheus Chamber Orchestra, New York City Opera, the American Symphony and countless chamber music groups. While living in Durham, Arturo became the wine manager at two iconic gourmet stores: Fowler’s in Durham and Southern Season in Chapel Hill. He had a wine spot on NPR in the ’90s and has been a continuously published wine journalist since 1997. He has won national awards for his work and is currently writing for Durham Magazine and its weekly blog, “Wine Wednesdays”. In addition, he loves teaching the clarinet. Read more on his website.
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