A Guide to Bull City Barbecue

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[dropcap type=”2″]F[/dropcap]ull disclosure:
I’m a vinegar guy.

My people are from Down East (you can still see Dees Drug Store on the main drag in Burgaw), and I was raised in Fayetteville. There, it’s eastern style all the way: chopped pork with a spicy-sweet vinegar sauce. Good, crisp slaw isn’t a side but an essential part of the mix. To me, that’s barbecue.

Given that, you may choose to take this guide with a dash of Texas Pete.

But, as my journey through Durham’s barbecue joints progressed, I realized my prejudice cut both ways. I found myself being a tougher judge of eastern-style offerings, whereas any other variety that wasn’t dry cuts of meat in ketchup got high marks.

All eight places I visited were good. Some were just better than others, while all had a bit of room for improvement. (One thing I learned: Apparently it’s really hard to get slaw right, or else I’m just a finicky dandy when it comes to that.) I offer this as just one man’s incredibly biased opinion. I’d encourage you to visit each and every one of these spots and decide for yourself.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column_inner][vc_column_inner width=”1/2″][vc_column_text]Honorable Mentions
There are more than a few places in Durham that aren’t barbecue places, per se, but can hold their own with the best of them.
 Here are my favorites:

The Blue Note Grill
There’s lots of slow hickory-smoked goodness to be found alongside the regular live music and full bar. The ribs might be the best in town.

Whole Foods
Yep, Whole Foods. More often than not the hot bar will feature classic North Carolina barbecue. The meat’s almost always done right, and the sauces aren’t half bad either. Hey, you just bought organic fair-trade quinoa extract. You earned a little barbecue.

Ed. Note: This article first appeared in our August 2014 issue.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column_inner][/vc_row_inner][vc_column_text]

Backyard BBQ Pit – 5122 N.C. 55

Backyard BBQ PitThe Joint
I must confess another bias here: This is my home base for Durham barbecue. It’s less than a mile from my house, and my wife and I got their amazing $5 barbecue sandwich plate (with two sides, not counting the slaw on the sandwich) when we first moved in four years ago. The folks who run it are gruff but friendly. Patrons can sign the walls. It’s lowdown, no-frills, and I love it.

The ’Cue
It’s smoked out back, as the name suggests, and the sight of wafting wisps as I pass by is enough to make my mouth water. It’s always perfect, moist but not mealy with plenty of crispy bits. I took a relative from Michigan, who, upon being introduced as a neophyte, was immediately offered samples. He said, “I’ll try the chopped pork.” He was quickly corrected: “That’s not chopped pork. That’s barbecue.” Indeed.

Star Side
Excellent fried okra is fried to order, but they often run out. Mac and cheese seems to be equal parts of each.

Bless Their Heart
Skip the Brunswick stew.

The Verdict
Home sweet home.

The Original Q Shack – 2510 University Drive

The Original Q Shack

The Joint
It’s the one with the long line seemingly at all times. People love this spot opened by Dan Ferguson, in which he tries to recreate the Texas barbecue shacks he knew and loved in his boyhood.

The ’Cue
The whole time I was eating the pulled pork, brisket and St. Louis ribs, I was thinking, “I should be enjoying this more.” You can tell the execution is spot- on. It’s just not my thing. I’ve actually given this a lot of thought since, and I think I prefer good eastern style because the sauce and the meat are married. In Texas-style, it’s like they’re still dating.

Star Sides
Fried okra was the best on tour. The jack cheese creamed spinach is a unique winner. Thin pickle slices on top of the meat is a nice touch.

Bless Their Heart
The coleslaw was too vinegary and sharp. Again, to me, slaw’s not a side but an integral part of the experience.

The Verdict
They don’t need an endorsement from me. Did I mention the long lines?

Bullock’s Bar-B-Cue – 3330 Quebec Drive

Bullock’s Bar-B-CueThe Joint
The granddaddy of them all. It began in 1952 when Glen Bullock, who did roadwork for the city, started selling his own barbecue by the pound to friends and neighbors. The restaurant opened in 1965 and has been in its present location since 1970. Pictures of past celebrity guests line the walls. You can dine family style, which is the way to go. The sports writers at The Daily Tar Heel, of which I was an honorary member, have made it a tradition to belly up after a day of eating as little as possible to see if they could beat the house. A lot of good times around those tables.

The ’Cue
Considering how much this place cranks out, it’s very good, if not spectacular. Sliced pork and ribs are also available, but why not stick with the tried-and-true?

Star Sides
The boiled potatoes, offered only on Friday and Saturday, are made the down-home way, which is to say exquisitely. Stewed apples are a nice sweet treat.

Bless Their Heart
The green beans are kind of “meh.” Go with some other greens if you want to feign healthiness.

Danny’s Bar-B-Que – 2945 S. Miami Blvd.

Danny’s Bar-B-Que

The Joint
The Durham location (there’s also one in Morrisville and Cary) is in the corner of a rather industrial-looking strip mall in RTP. It’s only open from 11 to 2 on weekdays to serve the techy lunch crowd, and it’s usually hopping. If you’re riding solo, you may wind up sharing a table with a stranger and striking up a conversation, as I did. Part of the charm, for sure.

The ’Cue
Danny Thompson lived in Jacksonville, Fla., for 41 years before relocating to Cary. He couldn’t find the chicken, ribs, brisket and smoked turkey he knew as barbecue, so he opened his own restaurant. I tried the chopped pork, brisket and St. Louis ribs. The pork was smoky, and the brisket melted in my mouth. The ribs were a little on the tough side. The sweet tomato-based sauce – typically anathema to me – wasn’t half bad, but the best surprise was the mustard-based sauce. A tangy friend to the pork. Generous portions and reasonable prices.

Star Side
The potato salad, recommended by the cashier, is out of this world. Not for the health conscious, but probably nothing on this menu really is.

Bless Their Heart
It’s nice that Danny offers a vinegar-based sauce, but I’d say just do your thing, good sir.

The Verdict
Good flavor, great value.

Hog Heaven Bar-B-Q – 2419 Guess Road

Hog Heaven Bar-B-QThe Joint
A working-class outpost in a working-class area, jibing with barbecue’s working-class roots. A sign on the door says “Closed Sunday for Family and Worship.” Tacky slogans – “I used to have a handle on life, but it broke” – plaster the walls. Friendly staff.

The ’Cue
The chopped pork was a little on the mushy side but tasted good. (The fried chicken looked great, and there’s also fish plus daily specials such as meatloaf, but this was strictly a barbecue excursion.) The real stars were the sauces. The vinegar-based was above average, but the ketchup-based was a big surprise. Peppery with just a hint of sweetness.

Star Side
The crispy-but-still-moist hushpuppies were the best I had on tour.

Bless Their Heart
The coleslaw oozed mayonnaise and was a poor complement to the ’cue.

The Verdict
Old school spot with heart.

The Pit Authentic Barbecue – 321 W. Geer St.

The Pit Authentic BarbecueThe Joint
Another sparkling new barbecue place in downtown Durham, this one in the heart of the funky-cool warehouse district, where once a food truck was the only way to get your grub on. It’s very spacious inside and even offers rooftop dining.

The ’Cue
I was able to do a side-by-side eastern vs. Lexington comparison here. They nailed the texture of the eastern-style chopped, though just a shade less lighter-than-air than Que. Didn’t require much sauce. I was impressed by the tenderness and flavor of the Lexington sliced pork, though, as noted, that bar’s pretty low for me. The Lexington sauce, which the waitress euphemistically told me contains a “tomato product,” was OK. My guess is that, if you’re a western fan, this place will be among your faves. But I’m out of my depth.

Star Sides
The BBQ Baked Beans taste more like chili with bacon on it. In other words, they’re amazing. The pecan pie is sinfully rich.

Bless Their Heart
The tomatoes and cucumbers were mealy on the summer day I went.

The Verdict
Elevated, even ambitious, barbecue in a great location.

Johnson Family Barbecue – 5021 Wake Forest Hwy.

Johnson Family Barbecue

The Joint
This relatively new eatery has an old-fashioned, friendly feel. Hard against a gas station out in North Durham, it’s a cozy spot with a side patio that recently became an open-mic venue for musically inclined neighbors.

The ’Cue
Chopped pork, right on the money. It did need an extra dousing of sauce, which was pretty standard issue, but solid.

Star Side
Excellent hushpuppies. The highlight was the pecan pie, just like Mema used to make and baked fresh daily.

Bless Their Heart
The collards lacked flavor. Throw in an extra ham hock.

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