What is pinot noir supposed to taste like? Do pinots that taste wildly different from French Burgundy deserve a place in the wine world? Pinot noir is one of those grapes that doesn’t do well just anywhere. And the results can be just horrific – the smell of burnt rubber, flavor of red Twizzlers, heavy/oaky reds that defy identity. We Americans have a love affair with this grape, and domestic examples from both California and Oregon have brought knowing smiles. But there are also failures, and a wine’s price tag is no guarantee of goodness.
This leads to today’s discovery, a reasonably priced example from the windswept altitude of Chile. It may not specifically remind you of other, cherished pinot noirs, but it holds its own as a fascinating take of this finicky grape.
2015 Pinot Noir, Viña San Pedro, 1865 Single Vineyard $21 suggested retail price
Garnet in color with a “rust” element and lightening rim. A slightly roasted nose of beetroot with earthy, prickly notes of raspberry, strawberry and mountain herbs. Sweet fruit on mouth entry, with a pure, spicy, medium-bodied texture suggesting summer berry compote and steeped tea leaves. It’s lithe and “feathery” with lilting “icy” acidity for freshness. You’ll sense a touch of sweetness on the aftertaste. Drink now-2022.
89/100 points
