A Toast to ‘Spring’

A Toast to ‘Spring’

Richly extracted Spanish red from Bierzo

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The wines from the Bodegas Godelia are new to me, but they’ve been creating quite a stir in the U.S. High standards, careful vinification and old vines contribute to the quality. Today’s red is their “entry level” release, but doesn’t taste at all secondary. It’s a 100% Mencia grape red from the Bierzo region of Spain. Made from 50- to 90-year-old vines, the depth and richness of the wine are evident. One thing I really like is that the wines are released late, therefore showing more secondary characteristics on the nose and palate. This wine is from the 2012 vintage; no cellaring required! Bravo, Godelia.

2012 Godelia Mencia $19 srp

Dark garnet color with lightening rim. Deeply fragrant with blackberry, black cherry, black currant and balanced fruit essences that meld and penetrate. Somewhat reminiscent of a left-bank Bordeaux on the nose. Flavors are pure, powerful and black fruit dominant. In fact, the flavors are reminiscent of crushed berries, with an earthy and a chocolatey texture. Slightly jammy, but not at all over the top. A big-boned red for a hanger steak, paella or a mushroom/eggplant casserole. Drink now-2020.

90/100 points

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Arturo Ciompi
Trained as a classical clarinetist and conductor, Arturo plied his trade for many years in New York, performing with the Orpheus Chamber Orchestra, New York City Opera, the American Symphony and countless chamber music groups. While living in Durham, Arturo became the wine manager at two iconic gourmet stores: Fowler’s in Durham and Southern Season in Chapel Hill. He had a wine spot on NPR in the ’90s and has been a continuously published wine journalist since 1997. He has won national awards for his work and is currently writing for Durham Magazine and its weekly blog, “Wine Wednesdays”. In addition, he loves teaching the clarinet. Read more on his website.