A Bottle Full of Surprises

A Bottle Full of Surprises

This 'fulsome' white comes from southern Italy

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For years we’ve read about Trebbiano being an innocuous grape, devoid of character, the grape of endless Italian “biancos” from all over the country. But, in the right hands, this grape can produce a wine full of flavor and surprises. Today’s example from Masciarelli, in Italy’s Abruzzo region, presents carefully selected grapes, aged in new oak barrels and vinified to the highest standard. A wine that will never allow you to think of Trebbiano as bland again.

2015 Masciarelli, Marina Cvetic Riserva Trebbiano $27 srp*

Bright golden yellow in color. A wide-bodied bouquet of stone fruit, apple and honey-laced pear. Richly seductive almost suggesting sweetness. Flavors are full and smooth with seamless fruit suggesting apples, quince and bitter lemon on the finish. Refreshing and with a decidedly “fulsome” texture that would match perfectly with creamed poultry, halibut/turbot or a pasta Alfredo dish. Drink now-2019.

91/100 points

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Arturo Ciompi
Trained as a classical clarinetist and conductor, Arturo plied his trade for many years in New York, performing with the Orpheus Chamber Orchestra, New York City Opera, the American Symphony and countless chamber music groups. While living in Durham, Arturo became the wine manager at two iconic gourmet stores: Fowler’s in Durham and Southern Season in Chapel Hill. He had a wine spot on NPR in the ’90s and has been a continuously published wine journalist since 1997. He has won national awards for his work and is currently writing for Durham Magazine and its weekly blog, “Wine Wednesdays”. In addition, he loves teaching the clarinet. Read more on his website.