A Wine Best Served Cold

A Wine Best Served Cold

This bracing Sicilian white screams for the freshest seafood

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I believe that Sicily is in contention for the most exciting wines being produced since the dawn of the 21st century. Sicily is being re-discovered, upgraded, and the wines are humming in a manner this grand island hasn’t seen for centuries. Although much of the focus has been on reds, white wines are also taking the world into its grasp. Today’s example, made from the indigenous Insolia grape, is as vibrant and mouth-watering a white as you’re apt to meet. Grab the very freshest seafood you can find, and this will marry perfectly.

2015 Insolia, Feudo Principi di Butera, Sicilia $16 srp

Deep golden yellow in color. A spanking clean nose of salt-swept sea grasses, stone fruit, ginger and a mineral nip. So inviting with a “can’t-wait-to-taste-it” character. Flavors are dry and bracing with mild citrus, orange peel, almond and Granny Smith apple notes. If you were sitting seaside in Palermo, this is the white you’d want to harmonize its offshore bounty. Serve nice and cold. Drink now-2018.

90/100 points

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Arturo Ciompi
Trained as a classical clarinetist and conductor, Arturo plied his trade for many years in New York, performing with the Orpheus Chamber Orchestra, New York City Opera, the American Symphony and countless chamber music groups. While living in Durham, Arturo became the wine manager at two iconic gourmet stores: Fowler’s in Durham and Southern Season in Chapel Hill. He had a wine spot on NPR in the ’90s and has been a continuously published wine journalist since 1997. He has won national awards for his work and is currently writing for Durham Magazine and its weekly blog, “Wine Wednesdays”. In addition, he loves teaching the clarinet. Read more on his website.