The ancient vineyards of Greece still have secrets to tell. The area of Corinthia, Nemea, with vineyards 3,400 feet in elevation, produces a refined, delicate red that seduces you throughout the evening. To me, the wine suggests an imaginary Nebbiolo/Pinot Noir amalgam in all of its subtlety and complexity. The grape is Aghiorghitiko, not an easy name to roll off one’s tongue – unless you are a savvy Greek!
2012 Grande Cuvée Nemea, Domaine Skouras $30 srp
Translucent, ruby red color. A floral, windswept nose of “unique” fruit essences, suggesting wild cherry, mushroom and exotic mountain berries. Deeply fragrant but neither heavy nor obvious. Flavors are barely medium-bodied, with a lightness that is beguiling. Somewhat like a mountain Nebbiolo, (think Carema or Donnas) with delicate fruit and dried herbal and spice elements that pile on layers of warmth and complexity. With great purity overall, the wine seduces in the manner of a fine Côte d’Or Burgundy. And, like “Old Man River,” it just keeps rolling along. Drink now-2020.