Rosé season is upon us, and instant pleasure factor takes center stage on these increasingly popular “light reds.” But just as every winery in existence now seems to make a rosé, I like to look at those who have long featured these wines as a major part of their portfolios. Since 1986, Masciarelli has made Villa Gemma, a wine that even has its own state-certified designation. It’s called Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo and is a serious approach to the joys of rosé made from the Montepulciano grape. This is a wine that gains pleasure on every subsequent sip because, as the wine warms up, more of the character of this rich, ripe grape comes to the fore.
2015 Villa Gemma Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, Masciarelli $19 srp
A bright, yellowfin tuna color. Enticing floral nose of strawberry, peach and watermelon that’s well-rounded, yet brisk and inviting. Flavors are beautifully balanced with a substantive carpet of berry fruit, blood orange tang and a soft but lightly bitter kick of refreshment. This screams for springtime sipping or to accompany snapper, soft-shell crab or a light chicken salad. Do yourself a favor and do not serve it too cold. Drink now-2018.