Most people don’t think much about aging white wines. Of course there are wonderful exceptions; predominantly white Burgundies, Alsace whites and the great Mosel and Rhine Rieslings of Germany. But there are other regions also out to prove they can make wines that not only age, but actually improve with requisite time in the bottle. Today’s example, from Casal Thaulero, in Abbruzi, Italy, is called “Thalè” and is made from the Trebbiano grape. At 10 years of age, it is showing complexities and flavors that can only be described as thrilling. Not an easy wine to find, it is truly worthy of a special search.
2007 Thalè Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, Casal Thaulero $40 srp*
Burnished, golden yellow color – by sight it could be a Sauternes! A creamy, lemon cake nose, joined by lilting elements of caramel, butterscotch and toffee make this white Burgundy-like in its depth. Flavors are silky smooth and refined, a texture that lingers long on the palate, with apple, pear and citrus overtones. Elegantly dry, poised and balanced, its a succulent wine and a fascinating experience. Try with chicken in a velouté sauce or fresh tuna steaks.
* Although I tasted the 2007, the 2009 and 2010 seem to be the most available vintages.
The care this wine receives, plus the warm climate of Abruzzi, promises similar results.