Give Chardonnay a Chance!

Give Chardonnay a Chance!

"Anything But Chardonnay" friends – please reconsider

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I supplied wine for a “house concert” where my wife sang this past Sunday. I put out a nice selection, but couldn’t help but notice that all the white wines were finished with the exception of the Chardonnay. And it was a very good one! My point is that the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) crowd still seems to be alive and kicking. Too many years of characterless Chards that tasted more like scotch are partly to blame; but Chardonnay now pleads, “Come back! Give me a try once again.”

And well we should, as today’s wine points an arrow at a current trend; whites with no oak barrel aging. It is Tellus, from the Falesco estate in Umbria, Italy. Winemaker whiz Riccardo Cotarella fashions this wine in stainless steel tanks, and it sings the pure song of the grape. A lovable wine that may just put you back in Chard’s corner; and at a very reasonable cost.

2015 Tellus Chardonnay, Umbria IGT $16 srp

A golden/yellow hue. Lemon cream nose, almost marshmallow-like, with spicy highlights and floral overtones. (An “open” and outgoing personality.) Mouth texture is medium/full bodied with a soft texture, apple-like sensations and excellent acidity. Clean and lively with a long, lemony finish. Match with fresh flounder, salmon or a saffron-laced rice dish. Drink now-2019.

90/100 points

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Arturo Ciompi
Trained as a classical clarinetist and conductor, Arturo plied his trade for many years in New York, performing with the Orpheus Chamber Orchestra, New York City Opera, the American Symphony and countless chamber music groups. While living in Durham, Arturo became the wine manager at two iconic gourmet stores: Fowler’s in Durham and Southern Season in Chapel Hill. He had a wine spot on NPR in the ’90s and has been a continuously published wine journalist since 1997. He has won national awards for his work and is currently writing for Durham Magazine and its weekly blog, “Wine Wednesdays”. In addition, he loves teaching the clarinet. Read more on his website.