Another year, another Campo Viejo Gran Reserva review. Yes, it’s Rioja’s largest estate, producing oceans of Tempranillo-based red. But its super-star bottling, the “Gran Reserva” (two years in oak, three years before release) remains a relative bargain in the world of “special” wine. Campo Viejo still retains that golden metal netting around each of these bottles. Once used to prevent unscrupulous re-corking or re-labeling, it remains a nice homage to a distant era; whereas microchips and bar codes do that quality control today. 2010 is a top vintage in Rioja, as this current release indicates. It will be a real keeper, if you are so inclined.
2010 Campo Viejo Rioja Gran Reserva $24 srp
Translucent, deep ruby in color. Gorgeous nose of plump raspberry, sour cherry, tobacco and mocha that floats on a cushion of toasty, vanilla-tinged oak. Sort of a fruit paste “pâté” of lusciousness that spreads over your sinuses. Flavors are medium-full bodied but still a bit wound up, with cherry, plum and licorice elements packed with life-giving acidity. This is one of those vintages that is slyly precocious, yet its structure promises an even more integrated future. Uncork in the morning if drinking tonight! (85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo) Drink now-2023.